AQUARIUM & POND ANSWERS;
Freshwater, Marine, Sick Fish, Lighting, Baths

By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 11/2024

AQUARIUM (& Pond) WATER CONDITIONERS; their ingredients (where available), what chemical functions they perform and uses based on my opinions of each based on using these products in a professional capacity (35 years of aquarium maintenance and research).
Here are a few aquatic conditioners discussed:

• Overview
• Stress Coat
• AAP Res-Cue (Res-Q)
• StressGuard
• Ammo Lock
• Start Right
• Prime/Safe
• AAP Shieldex
• AAP ProAqua
• API Tapwater Conditioner
• Weco DeChlor
• Novaqua
• Amquel
• Novaqua Plus
• Amquel Plus
• Tetra Aqua Safe
• Easy Balance with Nitriban
• Summary

OVERVIEW

The basic premise of an aquarium (or pond) water conditioner is to remove chlorine from tap water via Redox Reduction.
The most common active ingredient is sodium thiosulfate, however other similar sulfate based reducers or combinations there of are also used, especially in more advanced water conditions. This is why many have a subtle “rotten egg” sulfur smell.
As well, there are many other reducers that can break down chlorine including Vitamin C (albeit generally not always as rapidly at safe doses, reference Tap Water in Aquarium/Pond; Vitamin C Use). Even UVC energy from a True UV Sterilizer will slowly break down chlorine.

Being a reducer and chlorine oxidizer, the chemical reaction is essentially instant (see the experiment a few paragraphs down in the article).
As noted, most aquarium/pond water conditioners use sulfates such as sodium thiosulfate. Thiosulfate is a Redox reducing agent. It is routinely used as a titrant to determine concentrations of oxidants such as hypochlorite in bleach and dissolved oxygen in water.
It INSTANTLY dechlorinates water via this Redox reaction (producing new compounds including H2O), it does NOT alter the chlorine as is done in changing ammonia ions (NH3) to non toxic ammonium (NH4)

This allows for addition of water “de-chlorinated” by these products immediately to the aquarium or a water conditioner can be added in small increments while filling an aquarium via a hose or Lees Vacuum/Python type aquarium cleaning device/equipment.

Further References:
*Aquarium Redox; The only experience based article on this subject! (avoid aquariumscience.org article on this subject as it makes attacks based on opinions, not research and true experience)
*Aquarium Cleaning, Reasons, Methods, Devices, Equipment
*What is thiosulfate ion, and what is it used for?

It is worth noting that although the use of many water conditioners whether Prime, Start Right, Novaqua, or similar is usually after water changes to remove chemicals such as Chlorine; many (not all though) also either naturally stimulate fish slime coats (by adding electrolytes) or add ingredients for slime coat “bandages” and are useful for even very small water changes (such as 10%) even if the amount of chlorine added usually will not cause a problem in a healthy established aquarium.
The reason I say this is that is even small water changes can add some stress to fish and the addition of even full doses to small water changes can aid in adding electrolytes AND short term Redox reduction as well.

Much more about: Importance of Aquarium Redox

If your water company uses chloramines (which is common in the Southwestern USA), be aware of this and perform only 20% or smaller water changes in an established aquarium as the bio filter will generally remove the ammonia safely.
However for larger water changes or newer less established bio filters, I recommend using products such as Prime or Amquel Plus to remove the chlorine AND neutralize the ammonia/nitrites leaving these molecules still bio available for the nitrifying bacteria.

Recommended Product: SeaChem Prime Water Conditioner

Please note that the older Amquel or Ammo-Lock also neutralizes the ammonia, however these formulas do NOT leave it readily bio available for the nitrifying bacteria. Amquel or Ammo-Lock are OK for established aquariums; I just do not recommend using them for new less established aquariums or for aquariums that have been treated with medications.

Another important point about aquarium water conditioners is that many basic water conditioners such as API Tap Water Conditioner, Start Right, and even slime coat additive conditioners such as Novaqua and Stress Coat will remove chlorine and break the chlorine/ammonia bond in chloramines removing the chlorine, however leaving the ammonia ions behind.

How Much Water Conditioner to Use?
Often many manufacturers will suggest a dose equal to the entire tank water volume while another might suggest a dose amount equal only to the amount of water changed.
Which is correct?

The simple answer is both are correct.

Generally with an established aquarium, just using the amount of water conditioner as per the the volume of water changed is all that is needed.
However, since most water conditioners are Redox Reducers and help with natural slime coat production, if your fish are stressed, sick, or the tank is new, it might be best to use a dose equal to the entire aquarium water volume.
So this said, my general recommendation is to use a good water conditioner such as AAP ResQ or Prime at full dose, after ALL water changes, even if RO or DI water is used if only for the Redox and slime coat benefits.

Finally; Since most all aquarium/pond water conditioners are redox reducers designed to neutralize chlorine, a redox oxidizer; the use of any of these water conditioners after introduction of a strong oxidizer such as Potassium Permanganate will immediately neutralize this product.

Here is a little experiment I use to check the effectiveness of water conditioners;
Add Potassium Permanganate at double strength solution (according to manufacturers instructions) to a container of water, then add your water conditioner at recommended dose; the purple color of the Potassium Permanganate should immediately disappear indicating the effectiveness of your water conditioner and demonstrating how quickly it can remove chlorine (chlorine is an oxidizer like Potassium Permanganate, while the water conditioner is a reducer often containing Sodium Thiosulfate).

For more about Chemical Treatments, including Potassium Permanganate:
Aquarium Medications, Chemical Treatments

Some chemical dyes such as Malachite Green or Methylene Blue can also be neutralized by Prime, Amquel Plus or related water conditioners, however these are not the strong oxidizers that Potassium Permanganate is.
In experiments, it takes more than four times the dose of Prime to even moderately change the color of Malachite Green in a test solution, unlike the small amount needed to neutralize Potassium Permanganate.

This same experiment found that Prime and other water conditioners "neutralizing activities" do not last long once introduced into water.
So adding Prime, Amquel Plus, etc. then waiting for 15 minutes before adding Malachite Green, etc. yields no changes in the malachite green in solution.

It is also noteworthy that since these products are generally Redox Reducers, these products can temporarily lower available oxygen in the water. This is never a problem in an aquarium with even reasonably good water movement or aeration, HOWEVER if overused in a bowl with no circulation, this can deprive the fish of oxygen.

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Please note that this article is an incomplete list of several popular water conditioners (and is only aimed at commercial water conditioners), not other alternative methods) and by incomplete I do not mean inaccurate information, I just mean there are many conditioners I did not review here (both good, bad or in-between).

For a companion article dealing more specifically with Tap water and hazards possibly there in: Tap water for my Aquarium or Pond? From Chlorine and Chloramines to Phosphates, Sodium, & TDS

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STRESS COAT;

Stress Coat contains a special non-toxic polymer that is attracted to the skin of the fish forming a synthetic slime coat envelope
. Stress Coat also contains sodium thiosulfate, electrolytes such as sodium and sulfides which help reduce loss of electrolytes through the skin, gills, and damaged tissue. The Aloe Vera in STRESS COAT may inflammation of damaged fish tissue.

One major negative of Stress Coat is that it uses amine based polymers (see summary below) that have potential toxicity issues when used with Resins such as Purigen (which is why AAP Shield-X is the better/more professional choice).

The effectiveness of Aloe Vera has been proven by independent studies conducted at the University of Georgia, School of Veterinary Medicine IF it can get to the fish.
It should be noted that testing has shown that Stress Coat is only effective in direct application where by the "blob" of slime/aloe lands directly on the fish.

Stress Coat in no way harms aquarium fish, alters pH, or affects the biological filter. No ammonia or nitrite was detected in the test aquariums. The results indicated that the Stress Coat formula reduced the wound size compared to untreated fish tissue. Aloe Vera is high in mucopolysaccharides, an essential component of many tissues and believed to help in the healing process.

USE;
An effective water conditioner for the removal of chlorine, breaking of the chlorine/ ammonia bond (in water containing chloramines) and adding an aloe slime coat.

This is a popular "discounter" slime coat treatment for direct application to a fish that is wounded from transport or other reasons. Albeit, application in the water has proven to much less effective from my experience & testing as it tends to just "blob" on the aquarium bottom and not get aught up in the water column.
MOREOVER, I have found it less effective for overall slime coat generation after a water change.
For this and general water application, AAP Res-Cue/Res-Q, Quinex, & Shieldex as well as AAP/SeaChem StressGuard are vastly superior products as these do not rely on the actual "slime" and aloe to reach the fish to be effective, rather it instantly creates a Redox reducing environment in the water and on the epidermis of the fish itself.
As well, both the "slime" part of Res-Q & Sheildex mix much better with water and if direct application of slime coat after an injury is indeed needed, AAP Res-Q is by far the better and more effective choice from my experience.

Interestingly some "less informed" aquarium stores use Stress Coat to squirt into the fish bag as a fish stress reducer.
Unfortunately, my own tests and use has shown this practice does little other than aid somewhat in lowering Redox oxidizers in the water.
Most informed professionals have long employed a drop of MethyBlu as well as AAP Res-Q into the bag to lower stress and prevent disease transfer.
A new product, StressGuard can also be used as a substitute for Stress Coat (I should note that Res-Q disappeared from the market for over a decade, but AAP Professional Treatments has brought back this water conditioner that was part of most aquarium professionals arsenal for some time).

Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

AAP RES-CUE (Aquatronics Res-Q);

AAP Res-Cue is a product originally created by Aquatronics that has been brought back by AAP Professional Treatments (beware of clearance product sold elsewhere as AAP is the ONLY seller of this product online).
This is THE PREMIER freshwater conditioner used by professionals and should be part of ANY SERIOUS aquarium keepers inventory. IN FACT this was the aquarium water conditioner I used by far the most (even over the now popular Prime). WHY? Because results showed it to be most effective in most scenarios calling for a water conditioner. AAP Sheild-X/Shieldex was my 2nd choice and 1st choice for marine aquariums followed by Prime as my 3rd most used water conditioner (which has scenarios where it might be the best choice)

AAP Res-Cue/Aquatronics Res-Q is an excellent choice for a water conditioner when fish have frayed fins or have visible abuse.
AAP Res-Cue is a most effective product with seven way action; ResCue detoxifies and conditions water by polymeric complexing (bonding) of metallic ions.
ResCue then coats the fish with a slippery medicated bandage of Quinine Hydrochloride, Sulfamethazine, n Alkyl dimethly Benzyl Ammonium Chloride, & Propyl Paraben.
ResCue also balances osmotic processes, removes chlorine, clarifies water and aids in safe shipment of fish. Res-Cue does not color the water with its use.

Great when used in conjunction of a Medicated Wonder Shell

The key ingredients that separate Res-Cue from all other water conditioners are:
-Quinine Hydrochloride; An anti external parasitic (including Ich)
-Sulfamethazine; An anti microbial (think Triple Sulfa)
-n Alkyl dimethly Benzyl Ammonium Chloride; A phase-transfer catalysis, an important technology in the synthesis of anti-microbials which allows the other medications to better adhere to the fish epidermis

USE:
Used in lieu of other water conditioners, especially if medication on the fish is indicated such as after injury, is Septicmeia (aka Red Pest) is present or suspected or introduction of new fish.
As well squirting Res-Cue directly on a fish after a medicated bath or when introducing to the aquarium is another recommended use for this water conditioner

NOTE: my regular everyday use of Res-Cue in my 1000s of client aquariums (in particular the 110 tanks at the Bahooka Restaurant) showed lower incidence of disease when used as the primary water conditioner where applicable as compared to ALL OTHERS including the popular SeaChem Prime!
Speaking of Prime, Res-Q can be combined with Prime (both at normal dose) when there is a need for chloromine removal and de-toxification of ammonia is also called for.

Where to get:
*AAP Res-Cue
*AAP Quinex; Slime Coat Medicated Treatment/Conditioner
*AAP Medicated Wonder Shell

SEACHEM STRESSGUARD;

SeaChem StressGuard by AAP is a better alternative to Novaqua and especially API Stress Coat.
While the comparisons are not exactly "apples to apples" when compared to the before mentioned other similar water conditioners, if stress and injury are the reason for use, StressGuard is the vastly superior product.

APP/SeaChem StressGuard does NOT remove chlorine as would Stress Coat or Novaqua, however it is still a Redox Reducer based on the aldehydes contained there in.
Where StressGuard excels over these others is that while Aloe Vera is certainly a proven ingredient, most rarely gets on the fish in normal aquarium application while the protein active colloids found in StressGuard immediately disperse into the aquarium (or pond) water column and are much more effective in healing of the fish' epidermis.

Unlike others, AAP StressGuard lowers ammonia toxicity similar to Methylene Blue, but without the affect on the bio-filter use of Methylene Blue would have in a main display aquarium.
As well StressGuard is pH neutral, unlike Novaqua in particular which can lower pH. StressGuard does not affect CO2 readings in planted aquariums, unlike Novaqua.

As a caution though, StressGuard should not be used with aquarium remedies that include copper such as Cupramine or Medicated Wonder Shells. HOWEVER, Regular AAP Wonder Shells work well with StressGuard and in fact work synergistically/complimentary together, so I recommend BOTH used in instances of fish stress.

USE:
For use with new fish, suspected ammonia/nitrite toxicity, minor to moderate torn fins, injury or similar, use in main holding or hospital tank especially after "Fish Bath", and use with many antibiotic treatments to ease stress (may reduce chemical treatments such as Malachite Green, so use not advised).

Where to get:
*Seachem StressGuard
*Regular Wonder Shells from AAP

AMMO-LOCK;

Ammo-lock contains sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate. Ammo-lock works in both fresh and saltwater, to detoxify ammonia and remove chlorine and chloramines. Ammo Lock "locks" up ammonia in a non-toxic form (ammonium) until it can be broken down by the tank's natural biological filter and/or used by plants.
However AmmoLock creates acidic by-products that decrease the pH. As well, ammo-lock does not bind ammonia in a way to have it available for your filters to use

USE:
For the removal of chorine and chloramines.
This product is useful for the detoxification of ammonia, generally in established aquariums. I usually only use this product when the aquarium is well established and ammonia (NH3) is high for reasons such as a dead fish that was not removed quickly (please note, most ammonia test kits will still show ammonia present in the form of NH4 after using this product) or in areas where chloramines are used.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

This is not my first choice for ammonia removal, ESPECIALLY in tanks that are still cycling (Prime is much better here). One reason, as noted earlier, is continued use of Ammo-Lock can cause cessation of the nitrogen cycle since it does not readily allow for bio availability of ammonia to nitrifying bacteria.

START RIGHT;

Start Right contains allantoin (5-Ureidohydantion; Glyoxldiureide 2, 5 - Dioxo - 4 imidzolidinyle – urea) which is used in humans for the treatment of: skin ulcers, wound, scalds, burns and sunburns, carbuncles, acne and skin eruptions, fissures and abrasions, impetigo, eczema, psoriasis. This is a naturally occurring chemical even found in earthworms.
Start Right is a multi-beneficial water conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramine, neutralizes heavy metals, aids in cell regeneration and in the additional production of the fish’s natural slime coat, adds beneficial. It also contains chlorides of sodium and potassium, and polyvinylpyrrolidone which helps reduce loss of electrolytes through the skin, gills, and damaged tissue.
It is a complete water conditioner that stimulates the natural secretion of slime to protect fish from the harmful effects of handling, shipping, fish fighting and other forms of stress.
Start Right removes chlorine and chloramine instantly, neutralizes heavy metals, adds beneficial electrolytes and guards against secondary infection.

USE:
For the removal of chlorine, breaking of the chlorine/ ammonia bond (in water containing chloramines), adding of electrolytes for stress, and the natural generation a slime coat.
This is probably my favorite basic overall water conditioner for established aquariums (I use this along with SeaChem Prime).
Start Right will not remove ammonia or interfere with plant growth by removing nitrogenous compounds needed by plants. This product is also very economical.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

Where to purchase: *Jungle Start Right

SEACHEM PRIME & SAFE;

Prime contains complexed hydrosulfite salts which removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime also converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form (ammonium) that is readily removed by the tank’s nitrifying bacteria.
Prime may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity.

How Prime Converts toxic ammonia (NH3) to non toxic ammonium (NH4):
The process that takes place between Prime and toxic ammonia is not a straight conversion from NH3 to NH4.
Prime contains a binding agent that works to temporarily convert toxic ammonia (NH3) into a non toxic imidium salt using complexed hydrosulfite salts to chemically convert the ions in ammonia into a non toxic imidium salt.
It is noteworthy that this is a temporary conversion and Prime will only bind the ammonia in this form for up to 48 hours before the ions are free to re-associate into toxic NH3.

Prime also detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels.

The ingredients of Prime also promote the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat and are non-acidic and will not impact pH.

While Safe is a similar dry version of Prime, with the exception that it does not detoxify heavy metals, nor will it stimulate the natural slime coat of the fish. Unfortunately, due to its dry state, those benefits can not be achieved. Safe cannot be made into Prime, as it does not have stabilizers like Prime and will not last long term in a liquid form. If diluted into a liquid, it must be used immediately.
For these reasons, for the average aquarium keeper, I generally recommend Prime over Safe.
Reference: AAP/SeaChem Safe

USE:
For removal of chlorine, chloramines, and the de-toxifying of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. This product adds electrolytes that aid in natural slime coat generation and proper osmotic function which generally all this needed for fish stress.
This is my favorite conditioner to use in newer aquariums, aquariums with high ammonia, for water changes in tanks under medication treatment, or for use in areas where chloramines are in tap water. One reason I like this product is that is does what it claims!
Prime is also a great product to use if high ammonia or nitrites are encountered during cycling of a new aquarium while fish are present, as this product will NOT interfere with the important Autotrophic nitrifying aerobic bacteria (as my own studies as well as lab studies have shown).

Please note that fishless cycling is best, please read this article:
Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle; Methods for Cycling

Please note that when using Prime/Safe (and Amquel Plus) for neutralizing toxic ammonia (NH3) that these products work basically "instantly" by converting toxic ammonia ions into non toxic bio available ammonium (NH4) ions.
There is no residual effect, so new toxic NH3 will begin to accumulate after addition of Prime (or Amquel Plus) and the water change, however generally if you are carefully feeding and keeping the bio load as low as possible this should be adequate if water is changed and Prime is added every other day (until the high ammonia "Crisis" is over).

SeaChem Prime works for ammonia detoxifying by containing a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic.
As noted at the beginning of this article, most dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NH2Cl), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).

Where to get SeaChem Prime/Safe:
SeaChem Prime; Complete Water Conditioner
SeaChem Safe; Syper Concentrated Complete Water Conditioner
Safe is an excellent alternative for ponds or large aquarium systems. While Prime is a concentrated conditioner, Safe, being dry is even much more concentrated (1 kg. treats 240,00 gallons or 960,000 liters)

Typically, other water conditioners (dechlorinators) stop there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia! Seachem Prime goes one more step by including an ammonia binder to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process.

Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.
For further information about this product, please read this FAQ article:
Prime FAQs

API TAPWATER CONDITIONER

This is a very basic aquarium and pond water conditioner that is sometimes all an aquarium or pond owner needs to use.
This product contains Sodium Thiosulfate and nothing more which is a basic yet effective chlorine remover and Redox Reducer which make this product a popular and cost effective aquatic conditioner.

“Tap Water Conditioner” does not remove chloramines, however it breaks the chlorine/ammonia bond releasing the ammonia ions, so this product should not be used with larger water changes over 20% in all but the healthiest most established of nitrifying filters in ones pond or aquarium, however if chlorine is all your water company uses, “no worries”.
This product also does not aid with the addition electrolytes like other somewhat less basic conditioners such as “Start Right” nor does it aid with either natural slime coat or add a synthetic slime coat like many other water conditioners.

WECO DECHLOR

A similar product to API Tapwater Conditioner.
DeChlor also contains Sodium Thiosulfate and nothing more. This too is a basic yet effective chlorine remover and Redox Reducer.

The big advantage for this product is the price, as it is an effective chlorine remover and chloramine ammonia/chlorine bond "breaker", YET is costs less than any other product on the market.
Weco, who makes this product is not the large company most others are such as API, rather a small company out of Long Beach CA. that uses the same simple labels they have for 5 plus decades of popular local aquarium hobbyist use.

USE:
For basic economical removal of chlorine in aquariums and ponds (this product is available in 32 oz pond use sizes)

AAP SHIELD-X/SHIELDEX;

AAP Shieldex is a product originally created by Aquatronics that has been brought back by AAP.

AAP Professional Treatments "Shieldex" is an excellent choice for a water conditioner when fish need an additional boost to their slime coat.
I have professionally used this product & similar products in large quantities in my 1000+ aquarium maintenance business. AAP Shieldex is far superior to StressCoat, for one it allows for more natural slime generation and does not tend to "blob" on the bottom of the tank.
AAP Shieldex is a Vitamin E fortified protective, stress relief and disease preventing slime coat treatment for ALL fish (safe for all fish; freshwater, saltwater, invertebrates).
Next to Res-Q and followed by Prime, this was one of my "Go to" water conditioners and one that my 1000s of observations bore out to to be better than most.

Ingredients: Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Polyacrylamide, Propyl Paraben, Sodium Thiosulfate, Vitamin E

USE:
* AAP Shieldex has a specific use when setting up a new tank. Nitrifying bacteria enjoy clinging to the slime coat it produces. Success in cycling tanks has been achieved by squirting the liquid directly into the filter bed prior to adding water.
* Shieldex can be used for heavy metal detoxification.
* Shieldex is one of the finest water conditioners to remove toxic elements and place a slime shield on fish. Compare quality/slipperiness and concentration with other products.

Where to get:
*AAP Sheild-X/ Shieldex

AAP PROAQUA;

AAP ProAqua is a product originally created by Aquatronics that has been brought back by AAP Professional Treatments. This has been an aquarium professionals go to product for water conditioner when heavy metals are present and/or instant aging of the water is required (in particular, often in Amazon River biotope aquariums).
I personally was never without this product in my aquarium maintenance kit, as while it was not my regular go to water conditioner for most of my clients aquariums, when a situation called for this product, there was and still is NOTHING similar in the market place!

AAP ProAqua is a very unique water conditioner as it removes metal ions, including iron & zinc. As well, ProAqua removes chlorine.
Safe for ALL fish and invertebrates both marine and freshwater

Where to get:
*AAP ProAqua

NOVAQUA;

The formula of NovAqua is proprietary, so not all ingredients are available.
It is assumed that Novaqua contains sodium thiosulfate (a common Redox Reducer) and Edetates.
Novaqua also contains phosphates for buffering to stabilize water after water changes (often when water is added from the tap it immediately picks up O2 and CO2 and is unstable in pH, this aspect of Novaqua helps here).
The phosphate buffer system of Novaqua produces a 5 mg/L of phosphates in the aquarium as compared to the 30 mg/L shown in labs tests to grow algae.

NovAqua also contains electrolytes; cations (Positively charged atoms or molecules) and anions (negatively charged atoms or molecules) that are required by freshwater fishes. Freshwater fishes remove these ions from water via the gills. The need by fish for these ions is increased during times of stress.

USE:
The original conditioner that adds a slime coat, adds electrolytes buffers water, and removes chlorines.
NovAqua is useful for use water changes where buffering is needed due to pH changes after water changes. The level of phosphates used for buffering are not usually a problem for most aquariums, however if you already have high phosphates or algae problems I would avoid this product.
I also do not recommend the use of Novaqua in planted aquariums where added CO2 is utilized as this may affect your CO2 readings.
Otherwise this is an excellent product when one desires a conditioner that adds a slime coat and buffers a well.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

AMQUEL;

The active ingredient in Amquel is hydroxymethanesulfonic acid, sodium and salt. Amquel converts ammonia to a non-toxic form (ammonium) until it can be broken down by the tank's natural biological filter and/or used by plants.
Amquel works by virtue of the hydroxymethane- end of the molecule reacts with ammonia to form a non-toxic, stable water-soluble substance which is acted upon by the bacteria in biological filtration.

This reaction effectively removes the toxic ammonia from solution. Even in water of low pH (under 7.0) the above reaction proceeds to completion.
This is because even at pHs below 7.0 there is always some "free" ammonia (NH3) and the AmQuel will scavenge it from the water. This is why AmQuel works faster at higher pHs and in saline waters.

USE:
One of the first products for chloramine and ammonia removal. It is very effective in binding the ammonia (NH3) where that it stays non toxic even when nitrifying bacteria are not fully active.
Although safe for saltwater, I have seen this product lower pH, for this reason it is not my first choice in this type of conditioner (Prime is my favorite as stated earlier).

AQUASAFE;

The active ingredients in Aqua safe are Sodium hydroxymethane, sulfinate, polyvinvy. proxllidones, organic hydrocolloids, and organic chelating compounds.

USE:
This product removes Chlorine, breaks the bond of chlorine and ammonia in chloramines (however it does NOT neutralize the ammonia), it also has several key ingredients for natural slime coat stimulation and electrolyte balance.
This is a good product where chloramines or ammonia are not a problem (I would prefer Prime for a new tank, recently medicated tank, or in areas where tap water contains chloramines).

For established tanks this is excellent and I prefer the natural slime coat protection it provides for a healthy established aquarium.

The "Plus" version includes biopolymers to support health. New vitamin and mineral blend including: vitamin B complex for health, Iodine and Magnesium for activity.

AMQUEL PLUS;

Since this is a relatively new product, the ingredients are proprietary to Kordon and not yet disclosed.

AmQuel+ (also known as AmQuel Plus) is a recent chemical invention that has the ability to make the "Nitrogen Cycle" (involving ammonium/ammonia/nitrites/nitrates) totally nontoxic in aquarium and pond keeping, without interfering with its process in any way, and without interfering with the beneficial bacteria that are involved with the cycle (as with SeaChem Prime).
Further, AmQuel+ detoxifies/removes all of the toxic nitrogen compounds that can appear in aquarium and pond water over time.
As with Prime, I highly recommend this product for aquariums that are still not fully cycled in that it does NOT interfere with nitrifying bacteria (cycling), which is very important and a major selling point for this product!

USE:
A new product without a lot of practical experience (including by me, although others I trust have been using this more and more with good results that hold up manufacturer claims). The claims by Kordon sound very promising, and this may turn out to be an excellent product for new aquariums in particular, although use in established aquariums seems unnecessary.
Ingredients are safe for both fresh and saltwater.

NOVAQUA Plus;

Novaqua + is a newer product and again has proprietary ingredients that the company will not totally divulge. NovAqua+ claims to provide, in a single product, everything necessary to handle all of the needs when treating tap water for aquatic life, except for handling nitrogen compound removal such as ammonia, nitrites, nitrates which requires Prime or Amquel Plus (which either product is compatible with Novaqua Plus).

NovAqua+ is the newest generation of NovAqua, it is the latest stage of technological development by Kordon in water conditioners for aquariums and ponds
As with regular Novaqua, NovAqua Plus provides multiple protective colloid coatings on the fish's body to replace or reinforce the natural slime coating that is essential to counteract injury, infection, and adverse environmental exposure.

These organic polymers effectively shield wounds on fish, prevent the loss of internal fluids and electrolytes, and protect fish from external toxins and pathogens.
NovAqua Plus similarly buffers water like regular Novaqua

NovAqua Plus contains Echinacea and vitamins that are soluble in water and absorbed by fishes and invertebrates; the vitamins used in NovAqua+ are capable of boosting disease-resisting immune functions, healing open wounds and sores, slowing the spread of infection, and promoting cellular

USE:
Again a new product without a lot of practical experience (including by me). If this product lives up to claims such as aiding in osmotic function as well as chlorine removal and heavy metal removal, this may be a very useful product as well. Due to claims of iodine removal, I would not recommend use in marine reef tanks (as many soft corals need iodine)
Ingredients are safe for freshwater.

TETRA EASY BALANCE;

Tetra Easy Balance makes these claims:
Increases Carbonate Hardness; The appropriate amount of carbonate hardness is added to the aquarium water compensating for KH losses, which occur as a result of nitrification.
Stabilizes the pH value on a sufficiently high level, preventing a drop to biologically harmful levels (pH crash) and produces a certain amount of CO2 preventing excessive pH values.
Phosphate Removing Effect – In a standard aquarium (30gal) the phosphate concentration is reduced to zero during most of the 6-month period.

Nitrate Reduction with Nitraban™ – Serves as a nutrient for denitrifying bacteria that consume the oxygen releasing nitrogen from the aqua. however this assumes that your aquarium has a healthy anaerobic nitrate reducing filter, which most freshwater aquariums generally do not.
Tetra Easy Balance is a popular water conditioner in some aquatic circles, mostly in Europe.

I have also researched the ingredients which leaves me with even more questions (especially since results seem to be mixed at best).
One of the major problems with Tetra Easy Balance is its sodium based base.
This makes this product work like a sodium based water softener driving out essential mineral cations necessary for osmoregulation, this often results in a too low GH unbalanced KH/GH and poor Redox Balance.

Reference: Fish Osmoregulation; Water Softener use.

Here are few major ingredients:
*Sodium Hydroxide (up to) 2.5% (a base)
*Tartaric Acid (up to) 2.5% (an acid)
*Formaldehyde (up to) 2.5% (a Redox Reducer).

Based on these ingredients, some of the claims can hold up but others cannot.
As well, I found GoldLenny’s comment here interesting:
“There is a forum thread that I read a while back about a guppy tank where the guppies did not breed or have babies even once during the time of the Easy Balance dosing on the tank.
IMO, anything that stops guppies from breeding has to be a serious chemical compound that can't be good for our fish. If Tetra was to re-market the product as a fish birth control and give full disclosure of the negatives of the product, then I may not have as many complaints about the product.”.

Also this comment:
GoldLenny (Quote: “since Tetra will pretty much sell anything in a bottle... look at their Easy Balance with Nitraban product which is pure JUNK!!!”)

The bottom line is this is NOT a product I could EVER recommend!!
The problem with Guppies PROVES my concern as to this products effect on ESSENTIAL mineral cations and Redox Balance, which guppies are more sensitive to than some other fish.

SUMMARY/CONCLUSION;

This is an incomplete list that I will add to as time goes on and I will also update as new products and information becomes available.
Also it should be noted that most water conditioners of all types (basic, artificial slime coat replacer, and chloramine/ ammonia remover) have similar properties and ingredients and some of the outrageous claims I have read on the internet such as "Start Right is not safe for marine aquariums while Novaqua is" are without any scientific merit; if anything the phosphates in Novaqua can cause more problems than any ingredient in Start Right!

It also should be noted that ALL these types of chlorine/chloramine removing conditioners are Redox Reducers and thereby are helpful in maintaining a healthy aquatic environment by aiding in the removal oxidizing free radicals from the water (albeit temporary).
This why it is perfectly fine to add a full tank dose even if only 25% of the water is changed.
Reference: Aquarium Redox: Balance

Due to this reducing property of these products, you may also notice a slight to even moderate increase in cloudiness after use of these products due to the removal of oxidizers in the water, do not be alarmed this is perfectly normal and a healthy tank will clear in a few hours or less.

Please also note that some of the ingredients can expire with time especially when left in an unsealed container (sodium thiosulfate is a reducer and will be affected by air borne oxidizers). The time this will take will vary, although personally I would not use an open bottle after one year based on the degradation of sodium thiosulfate.

An interesting test I perform that shows the effectiveness of these products is to add potassium permanganate (which is an oxidizer like chlorine) to test water, then add your water conditioner at the recommended dose and watch the purple potassium permanganate color disappear instantly.

Note about amines used in many of these products:
“Amines are a class of organic compounds of nitrogen that may be considered as derived from ammonia (NH3) by replacing one or more of the hydrogen atoms by organic radicals, such as CH3 or C6H5, as in methylamine and aniline.
The former is a gas at ordinary temperature and pressure, but other amines are liquids or solids.
All amines are basic in nature and usually combine readily with hydrochloric or other strong acids to form salts.”

As per my professional recommendations for water conditioners, it is quite simple based on the 1000s of aquariums under my care as well as research;

*For an everyday water condition, "AAP Shieldex" is easily my choice and is second to none as per the main reasons to use a water conditioner and is superior as to slime coat restoration (vastly superior to API Stress Coat)

* If an aquarium has had or is having possible disease issues, or new fish have been added, AAP Res-Q is the clear choice. There is no competition to this product to even compare

*If ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, or chloramines are an issue, AAP/SeaChem Primes is your best choice

Finally, I have a good article about tap water that compliments this article and I recommend reading: "What I should know about Tap Water"

Other Recommended Reference/Product Sites

The article below is a MUST READ for anyone interested in moving from basic aquarium keeping to more advanced aquarium keeping, including better improved Redox Balance:

Aquarium & Pond 'TRUE' UV Sterilizer Use

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Freshwater Aquarium Care

Aquarium Light Information
This is THE article for in-depth, researched, and regularly updated information on the subject of aquarium lighting; a MUST READ!

POND CARE INFORMATION; for a "Clear Pond"

UV Replacement Lamps
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output medium pressure bulbs commonly sold at Amazon or eBay

API/AAP Furan 2 (Nitrofurazone)
One of the more effective treatments to use in fish medicated baths, from the leader in aquarium medication use information

Algone Nitrate Reducer
Algone is an excellent product to utilize to lower nitrates, as enzymes in Algone break down proteins, carbohydrates and metabolic waste into insoluble complex structures

FISH AS PETS
Fish as Pets with articles & commentary of Interest to the Aquarium Hobby

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Labels: Ammo -Lock, Amquel, aquarium water, DeChlor, Novaqua, Prime, Start Right, Tap Water Conditioner, Tetra Aqua Safe, Water Conditioner

By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 1/22/19

Index (click to "Jump To")

• Chlorine & Chlorimines


• Vitamin C for Chlorine & Chlorimines


• Inorganic Molecules; Nitrites, Nitrates, Copper, Phosphates, and Fluoride


• TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)


• Sodium


• Summary & References

There are standards for tap water quality, but that does not mean that these levels are safe for fish (or humans for that matter).

CHLORINE AND CHLORAMINES:

To start, most city tap water has chlorine (Chlorine (Cl2), Sodium Hypochlorite NaClO), which is an oxidizer (A chemical substance that gains electrons in a redox chemical reaction), but this can kill fish by burning their gills and poisoning their blood.

More about: Aquarium Redox Balance

Chlorine is not very stable and is easily removed with the many commercial "De-chlorinators" available, most using Sodium Thiosulfate.
Agitation of the tap water in a bucket or other container with an air stone connected to an air pump will generally remove the amount of chlorine generally added to tap water in a matter of hours if not at least a day. However, if chloramines are used, agitation will not work for removal.

Some municipalities use chloramines because they are more stable than chlorine (this is especially common in areas where water must be transported over longer distances due to non-availability of local water sources, such as in the Southwest USA or areas of drought).
Chloramines (NH2Cl) are a chemical compound of chlorine and ammonia and cannot be boiled out. It can't even be allowed to sit for a few days to remove the Chloramines before adding this water to an aquarium.
Chloramine is formed through the reaction of dissolved chlorine gas and ammonia in tap water. Chloramines can also be composed of two other formulas: dichloramine (NHCl2) and trichloramine (NCl3).

Chloramine passes through the gills of fish and enters the blood stream. There, it reacts with Hemoglobin, forming Methemoglobin.
In studies of some fish exposed to 1 ppm-Cl of monochloramine, then about 30% of the hemoglobin is converted into methemoglobin; the fish suffered from anoxia (low oxygen in their tissues) because they have lost some of their hemoglobin, which is responsible for carrying oxygen in the blood.
In my experience, fish exposed to chloramine suffer immediate and often severe reactions from darting, to gasping, to immediate shock and death!
This is NOT the general reaction of exposure to chlorine, as fish generally do not show symptom of exposure to chlorine in normal tap water doses unless exposure is prolonged, and most de-chlorinators remove chlorine instantly/within seconds.

See a simple experiment in this article: “Aquarium (& Pond) Water Conditioners” (about three paragraphs down).

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If your tap water has Cloramines, you will need to remove them chemically before adding the water to your aquarium. Standard de-chlorinators such as "Start Right" Water Conditioner will remove the chlorine, but leave the ammonia (NH3) for either your bio filtration or Zeolite (freshwater only) to remove. These basic de-chlorinating products are simple Reducers (sodium thiosulfate) and are quite safe, even overdosed contrary to some opinions floating around.

The vastly preferred products for use in conditioning water treated with Chloramines such as Amquel (or better Amquel Plus) or SeaChem Prime will remove the chlorine and neutralize the ammonia (and more).
Prime is made from Hydrosulfite salts which are basically non toxic reducing agents made up of bisulfites and hydrosulfites, aqueous solution, buffered at pH 8. As mentioned earlier, reducing agents are basically non toxic at reasonable doses to fish and aquatic animals.

A product resource for: SeaChem Prime

The chart to the right shows some common chlorine/chloramines reducing agents.
You will note that metabisulfites and bisulfites are efficient reducers, however it should be noted that some studies have shown these to lower dissolved oxygen levels. I have never had a problem with this due to the fact I always employ good circulation when ammonia, chloramines, or chlorine are a problem (actually good circulation should always be employed).

Also note, Vitamin C (ascorbic acid/sodium ascorbate) is also an reasonable reducer (albeit not as strong as others at doses that do not affect pH dramatically), which also goes along with many of my points for a Reducing Redox.
In fact, Vitamin C in either Ascorbic Acid or Sodium Ascorbate can effectively lower chlorine or break the chloramine bond. Generally, approximately 2.5 to 2.8 parts of Vitamin C is required to neutralize 1 part chlorine
Be aware that Vitamin C, in particular in the form of ascorbic acid, can dramatically lower pH in normal doses to be effective.

Vitamin C may be a good choice for 25% water changes where its lower reduction abilities at safer pH doses might even be desired.
HOWEVER, in larger water changes or especially with chloramines, the undesirable drop in pH at doses required may make it a poor or even dangerous choice. Ascorbic Acid at doses that may be required will immediately reduce pH by 1.5 on the logarithmic pH scale (which can shock or even kill fish when this change happens suddenly, which it will without adequate alkalinity via bicarbonate buffers). Sodium Ascorbate will change pH at doses required will immediately reduce pH by .5 (reference 1).

Nor is Vitamin C as a good a choice for long term Redox balance and reduction since it is a short term reducer.

For much more information about water conditioners that will remove Chlorine and/or Chloramines, please read this article:
Aquarium (& Pond) Water Conditioners.

Further Aquarium Redox Information:
Aquarium Redox

Other Methods for Chloramine Removal Include:

• Reverse Osmosis or Deionization Resins: reverse osmosis systems (where carbon is usually part of the pre-filtration prior to the RO membrane), the ammonia is partially removed by the reverse osmosis system. The extent of removal by the RO membrane depends on pH. At pH 7.5 or lower, reverse osmosis will remove ammonia from 1.4 ppm-Cl monochloramine to less than 0.1 ppm ammonia.
  DI resin can then remove any residual ammonia.
  This method is EXCELLENT for preparation of freshwater prior to adding a marine salt mix or for topping off aquariums prior to evaporation.
  HOWEVER, it's not a good method for 100% use of water in freshwater aquariums as ALL important minerals are stripped from the water that freshwater fish need for osmoregulation (in marine tanks, the saltwater mixes provide these essential elements).
  
  PLEASE read these articles fully before using this method for freshwater aquariums:
  *AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY; Use of RO water in Freshwater Aquariums
  
  * Use of RO, DI, Softwater in Aquariums
  
  *PROPER OSMOTIC FUNCTION- ELECTROLYTES; Osmoregulation in Fish


• Carbon & Zeolite: as with thiosulfate (used in may water conditioners such as Start Right, Novaqua, Tap Water Conditioner, etc.), carbon removes the chlorine, however ammonia is not bound significantly by activated carbon.
  Consequently, treatment of water with activated carbon will need to be followed up by some method of eliminating the ammonia such as the use of Zeolite. Zeolite is NOT for use in saltwater, however it can be an effective albeit SLOW method of removing residual ammonia from the previous Chloramines molecules.
  
  A Product Resource for: Ammo-Carb, Ammo-Chips, Zeolite Products


• Even the use of a Category A or B True UV Sterilizer will slowly lower chlorine in an aquarium as per my tests, albeit not as fast as traditional water conditioners or Vitamin C.
  Reference: Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilizer Use

INORGANIC CHEMICALS; Nitrites, Nitrates, Copper, Phosphates, and Fluoride:

Ammonia: As of the time of this article, there are no limits as per the amount of ammonia (either NH3 or NH4) allowed in tap water.
Reference: Ammonia in Drinking Water

Nitrites are allowed up to 1 ppm, yet at this level there can be some damage to fish gills. Methylene Blue (for nitrite and ammonia poisoning) can be used for treatment of nitrite poisoning, but it is best to avoid this. A good bio filter will generally remove trace amounts of this from tap water, as will products such as Prime.

Nitrates are allowed up to 10 ppm, yet at levels above 10- 30 (depending on studies) in human studies infants under 6 months can become ill and suffer symptoms such as Blue Baby Syndrome.

More about:
Aquarium Nitrates

Also See these links for more about Nitrates:
*www.thirteen.org/edonline/studentstake/water/schoolwater/nitrogen/nitrate.htm

Now this level has shown no ill effect in any fish studies I have seen, but levels above 20 ppm can harm some marine cephalopods.
It makes since in many marine aquariums too use RO water to mix up your salt mix or top off for evaporation so as to not add to "difficult to remove nitrates" in you marine aquarium.

Other "allowed chemicals" of note are Copper- 1.3 ppm, Phosphates (no standards) and Fluoride- 4.0 ppm.
Copper at these levels is not generally a problem with fish or aquatic invertebrates, but if you are already treating with copper sulfate or if this is allowed to accumulate in a reef tank this is something an aquarist should be aware of.

Copper levels above 5 ppm can start to become dangerous for some delicate invertebrates such as Acropora corals and levels above 25 ppm can be dangerous to fish. It also should be noted for copper, that in hot water in particular, copper can be also added to tap water via home copper plumbing.

As for Fluoride; I have not found conclusive studies on the harm of Fluoride to fish or other aquatic creatures, in fact trace amounts are necessary for coral growth in marine aquariums. So despite some over stated worries about Fluoride in tap water used in aquariums, this in one I would not consider.

As for Phosphates; many municipalities use phosphates to reduce the levels of lead that have been found in drinking water.
Phosphates create a protective film on the inside of the pipe, slowing the electrochemical processes that lead to corrosion.
Unfortunately for aquarists this can lead to extra algae growth, especially of Blue Green Algae (Cyanobacteria). This can be a real problem in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums without easy solutions.

I have used many phosphate sponges with mixed results, but I can say with certainty is that carbon will not remove phosphate, in fact some carbon may even add to your phosphate levels. Protein Skimmers in marine aquariums can remove some phosphates, but I have not recorded that much difference.
Water changes using RO water and then adding minor elements and electrolytes back in is another solution. In freshwater aquariums, Wonder Shells can help add these elements as well, but in saltwater the marine mixes have all the elements you need.

A resource for:
*“Wonder Shells – calcium and electrolyte replenisher”
*Rena Phos-Zorb
*NPX Bioplastics Nitrate & Phosphate Reducing Polymer Media

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)

Total Dissolved Solids basically is any minerals, salts, metals, cations (positively charged mineral ions) or anions (negatively charged mineral ions) dissolved in water.
This includes anything present in water other than the pure water (H20) molecule and suspended solids. (Suspended solids are any particles/substances that are neither dissolved nor settled in the water, such as detritus).
The TDS is equal to the sum total of cations and anions ions in the water. Generally the measurement of TDS is given in Parts per Million (ppm) being the weight-to-weight ratio of any ion to water.

There of coarse is a relationship to GH (General Hardness) and Redox, so too low or too high a TDS can be detrimental, depending upon the fish kept. With this in mind, the use of RO (Reverse Osmosis Systems which lower TDS considerably should take into consideration the re-mineralization of the water (again depending upon the fish kept).
Also Redox is affected when one uses RO (or DI) water, as the Redox of RO Water is generally too high (since RO water is more acid oxygen is left behind), as a highly oxidizing environment may be OK for short term, long term health considerations for fish (or even humans as per Redox Research) is not good.

For Further in depth information about Redox:
Aquarium Redox

RO Machine Links:
Reverse Osmosis Water Filter
Aquarium Minerals for RO Water

The diagram below shows the relationship of TDS and Tap Water (from www.tdsmeter.com/)

Please Click on the Diagram Above to Enlarge

SODIUM:

The Environmental Protection Agency suggests 20 mg or less of sodium per liter as the amount of sodium to strive for in drinking water, so anything over this amount is going to tend toward driving out certain minerals, albeit in small amounts, that are essential for fish, such as Calcium & Magnesium. As freshwater sodium level increases beyond this number, it will become increasing difficult to maintain a healthy/balanced GH/KH.
A sodium level that is over 270 mg/liter in freshwater is considered quite high and at this level maintaining the correct essential mineral ions will be very difficult in your aquarium.

It is for this reason a sodium softened water system should NEVER be used for ANY aquarium.

See: Softened Water; Home/Office Water Softeners Use

SUMMARY:

Before you go and rush out and use nothing but bottled water, please note that most bottled water is NOT suitable for fish when used 100% (it can be mixed or reconstituted).
Drinking Water in particular is generally RO water with some minerals added for “taste” (Spring Water is generally fine if it is true spring water). Not that there is anything wrong with RO or DI water, it is just they are devoid of VERY important electrolytes and trace elements needed for proper fish respiration and osmotic function, without which you may be worse off in terms of fish health than with slightly polluted tap water.
So please use the information in this article to improve your water quality and make wise choices as to your water sources.

Please read this article about Aquarium electrolytes and more:
AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY; CALCIUM, KH, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS

Further Resources

• For a more in depth article about Aquarium Test Kits, please follow this link:
  AQUARIUM TEST KITS; what they are used for and their importance


• "Chlorine and the Reef Aquarium"



• Using Vitamin C To Neutralize Chlorine in Water Systems

Carl Strohmeyer copyright- 1/22/19

Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites


Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilization


Aquarium & Pond Information and Resources


Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

*Fish Nutrition for Aquariums

TMC V2 RO Filter systems; the very best you can buy with TDS meter (far superior to 4 stage RO/DI systems sold via Bulk Reef Supply, Amazon, or eBay that use the inferior cellulose triacetate membrane made by Dow):
Reverse Osmosis Aquarium Water Filters; with TDS Meter



*Aquarium Ich; Ichthyophthirius Multifilis and Cryptocaryon Irritans

*Complete Pond Care

*The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle; COMPLETE

*Melafix Dangers? Bettas, Gouramis

UV Replacement Lamps/Bulbs
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output medium pressure bulbs commonly sold at Amazon or eBay

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Labels: aquarium, Chloramines TDS, Chlorine, City Water, electrolytes, pond, sodium, Tap Water Conditioner, Total Dissolved Solids