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Hydrogen Sulfide in Aquariums
Hydrogen Sulfide production in anaerobic De-Nitrification for Aquarium/Pond Nitrate Removal
Sections Include
By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 35+ years experience
Updated 1/12/19
Basics/Overview
Hydrogen Sulfide is unfortunately often a companion of anaerobic de-nitrification, of which denitrification is an important aspect of keeping low nitrate levels in both salt and freshwater.
This said, it is important to achieve de-nitrification without undue amounts of Hydrogen sulfide produced, but often this is difficult since both are byproducts of organic breakdown in environments that are either mostly devoid or totally devoid of oxygen. However within the last point is part of the answer as well!!
Hydrogen sulfide (sulfate reduction) generally results from the bacterial breakdown of organic matter in the total absence of oxygen, where as de-nitirifcation (nitrate reduction) that lowers nitrates while producing free nitrogen generally happens in an environment that is mostly devoid of oxygen but not completely devoid as in hydrogen sulfide production.
The production of Hydrogen Sulfide in aquariums (both salt and even more so freshwater) is a controversial subject, often with unclear answers as to whether anaerobic de-nitrification is beneficial in freshwater due to the POSSIBLE production of Hydrogen Sulfide.
The keyword is “possible” as in saltwater, you CAN have de-nitrification with no or low hydrogen sulfide production.
With the most current research (although admittedly not conclusive in my view), you CAN have anaerobic de-nitrification and NOT have dangerous levels of Hydrogen Sulfide produced in both fresh & saltwater. With healthy de-nitrification it is possible to have low nitrate levels below 20 ppm
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Points to achieving De-Nitrification (Removal of Nitrates) without Hydrogen Sulfide Production
- One study showed that even though sulfate reduction (the production of hydrogen sulfides from Nitrates/Sulfur) took place maximally at ¾ inch (1-2 cm) depth, free hydrogen sulfide was present only below a depth of 2-1/2 inches (6-7 cm), above which Fe++ (Iron) was available for precipitation as iron sulfides.
So with this study in mind, keeping your substrate sand bed mixed at depths deeper than 2.5 inches and/or minimally aerated can prevent this process.
This will also allow for better de-nitrification (lower nitrate levels) as nitrate will be allowed to better permeate the deeper sand depths allowing for more nitrate reduction and less sulfur reduction. - Care should be especially taken with Under Gravel Filters as these filters can allow much compaction of gravel when gravel is much over 2.5 inches.
As well mulm/sludge can build up under the under gravel plates and the biggest risk is when the filter is shut down either manually or by a power failure as this decomposing mulm can quickly go sulfur reducing anaerobic and not only produce hydrogen sulfide, but the more immediate danger is a sudden decrease of dissolved oxygen levels from the die off of aerobic nitrifying bacteria trapped/dying in the deeper layers of gravel or under the plates.
This is especially true with the tube/pvc type UG Filters and less of a problem with UG Filters with ridges in the plates.
That said a well maintained Under Gravel Filter rarely has Hydrogen Sulfide problem (although these filters also cannot perform anaerobic de-nitrification either) - Along this same line of thought as the previous point, a good surface flow of water and correct vacuuming procedures which includes surface vacuuming of top layers of gravel, AND as well occasional and gentle vacuuming of deeper layers except where plant roots would be damaged
One test/study I read showed that organics in totally oxygen deprived test tubes made little difference in the production of hydrogen sulfides, HOWEVER it was the total lack of oxygen and nitrates in these layers that allow for sulfate reduction to start. - In marine tanks I recommend a ½ inch layer of #3 gravel/crushed coral over the several inch deep bed of fine #00 oolite sand, while in planted aquariums I have found good results limiting Hydrogen Sulfide production by only using fine sand or planted substrate in the area of plant roots ONLY, then adding #3 or #5 gravel/pebbles in all other areas of the tank bottom.
- Change to the brightest lights possible. The lights drive higher oxygen concentrations and the oxygen will help neutralize hydrogen sulfide.
A study showed that when 300 ppb hydrogen sulfide was added to Biscayne Bay and Gulf Stream waters off of Florida, the half life of the sulfide was 49 and 147 minutes, respectively.
Such studies found that sunlight (both ultraviolet and visible) was able to significantly accelerate the oxidation.
This speaks “loudly” for strong lighting whether it be healthy 6400 K SHO lamps, Metal Halide, or High Output LED Lights (which my previous notes in reef keeping showed NO hydrogen sulfide production when SHO, MH & LED lights were employed).
Product Resources:
*SHO Super High Output Aquarium or Hydroponics Lights
*TMC High Output LED Aquarium Lighting Systems
This also shows one more reason why a UV Sterilizer should be used, whether fresh or saltwater if they can at all be afforded (of which UV Sterilizers are not all that expensive, even for good quality/value models such as the Terminator UV).
Product Resource: SunSun, Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers - In freshwater aquariums, plant roots have been shown to not only remove ammonia directly, but as well (and more importantly as to the subject of this article) prohibit the total anaerobic conditions that promote production of hydrogen sulfides.
- Also with freshwater aquariums, the addition of iron supplements to the water can be helpful for Hydrogen Sulfide prevention. The iron will bind to the sulfide, making it neutral to living organisms.
Product Resource: SeaChem Iron Supplement
What these points show is that the hydrogen sulfide production in substrate is only common when the area of sulfate reduction in question is totally deprived of oxygen and nitrates.
This can be demonstrated with a canister filter or FSB filter that ceases operation (due to power filter, mechanical failure, etc.).
As long as very small amounts of oxygen and nitrates can penetrate into the substrate (or live rock), this will not become a problem.
This same general idea holds true for man made de-nitrators that have no oxygen whatsoever and are not bathed in adequate nitrates. This also can be demonstrated with a canister filter that is set up with products such as Matrix, Bio Home, or Volcanic Rock where as even marginal oxygen penetration should keep the filter from producing hydrogen sulfides. Ditto a FSB filter operating with a large/tall reaction chamber or using nitrate removal products such as NPX Bioplastics
Light energy has also been shown to be a factor in destroying rogue hydrogen sulfide molecules in the water and penetrating into some layers of substrate as well.
Product Resources:
*AAP/TMC Professional FSB Filter
*AAP NPX Bioplastics
Appearance/Evidence of Sulfate Reduction
A tell-tale sign of Hydro Sulfide production is black areas in the deep areas of sand or substrate, whether freshwater, marine, or especially ponds.
The rotten egg odor is another sign, although as Hydrogen Sulfide levels in the air increase, research has shown that human’s olfactory senses tend to block out the smell somewhat.
However the smell test is still useful when one stirs up substrate releasing large amounts of trapped hydrogen sulfide bubbles which if your nose is just above the water's surface, the tell tale rotten egg smell is easy to detect. If bubbles released upon stirring the substrate do not produce a smell, likely the majority of these trapped gasses is nitrogen from beneficial nitrate reduction.
Please see the picture to the left of what the "black" Hydrogen Sulfide producing layers look like in sand (click picture to enlarge).
Hydrogen sulfide is toxic to a wide range of organisms, including people, which is a FACT that has been known for many years.
It is just now becoming clear, however, that hydrogen sulfide also appears to play important roles in normal biochemical processes in animals. Neurons and muscles, for example, may use it in various ways, but exactly how this takes place has not been made clear scientifically.
One way that hydrogen sulfide exerts its toxicity is by inhibiting a mitochondrial enzyme called cytochrome c oxidase.
It can be inhibited at hydrogen sulfide levels in solution as low as 30 ppb.12
Such inhibition limits the ability of mitochondria to produce energy for cells. Another enzyme, catalase, is inhibited at concentrations of 6,000 ppb.12
Other mechanisms of toxicity are also likely, and have recently been studied.
Being that hydrogen sulfide is heavier than air, it can accumulate at the water surface if there is not adequate ventilation above the aquarium tank which in turn cuts off oxygen from entering the water resulting in livestock deaths. Look out for gasping fish as a possible sign.
Hydrogen sulfide eruptions happen frequently off the shore of Namibia because of patterns in the ocean currents called upwelling.
In this region, cold water pushes nutrients from the ocean floor to the surface, where ocean life thrives.
In particular, large colonies of microscopic ocean plants, phytoplankton, grow in the nutrient rich water, forming the dark green swirls seen in this image.
As the plants use all of the nutrients, they die and sink to the sea floor where bacteria consume them. The bacteria release toxic hydrogen sulfide gas into the soil. Eventually, the toxic gas erupts from the soil.
In addition to the bright waters seen by satellites, the event is marked by massive fish die-offs and a strong smell that resembles rotten eggs. To date, hydrogen sulfide eruptions have only been observed off the shore of Namibia
Please click the picture to the left to enlarge.
HOWEVER hydrogen sulfide toxicity problems aside, I have observed and the most up to date scientific evidence supports that an aquarist or pond keeper CAN maintain de-nitrification without the worry-some production of hydrogen sulfides
For Further information about the Aquarium/Pond Nitrogen Cycle, please see this very well researched article:
"The Aquarium & Pond Nitrogen Cycle"
Further references:
*Hydrogen Sulfide and the Reef Aquarium
*Wikipedia; Hydrogen sulfide
Other Suggested Resources, Products
Freshwater Aquarium Care
Sponge Filtration; Information How Sponge Filters Work
NPX BioPlastics; Nitrate & Phosphate Reducing Media
by Two Little Fishies
TMC V² Bio Fluidized Sand Bed Filters
Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with optional Oolitic Sand also maintains essential aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL marine & freshwater life
Algone Nitrate Reducer
Algone is an excellent product to utilize to lower nitrates, as enzymes in Algone break down proteins, carbohydrates and metabolic waste into insoluble complex structures
Aquarium Wonder Shell; ONLY Authorized full online seller
The most simple and proven effective way to maintain healthy mineral cations in your aquarium. Beware of parasite retailers online. ONLY AAP is authorized to sell the full line of FRESH Wonder Shells, both Medicated & Regular
SunSun HJ-1542 Aquarium Pump; replaces Via Aqua 1300
This pump replaces the Via Aqua 1300 and other copies such as by AquaTop as the Premier Power Head Pump for Aquariums, Ponds, Fountains, Wet/Dry Filters. This pump is submersible with Mag drive & ceramic shaft
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Labels: aquarium hydrogen sulfide, de-nitrification, freshwater, Hydrogen sulfide, nitrates, saltwater, sulfate reduction
Ichthyophonus in fish
By Carl Strohmeyer-PAMR 40+ years experience
Updated 1/22/19
Ichthyophonus (Ichthyphonus) are protists placed between fungi and animals in Biological classification. They are considered members of the kingdom Protozoa in the recent Biological classifications, but are still discussed with fungi in some scientific texts.
Ichthyophonusis one of the more devastating aquarium diseases. It is nearly impossible to treat, however it is easier to prevent.
This progressive disease of generally aged fish may be more common than many aquarists realize as identification is often very difficult with the proper scientific instruments and a Necropsy of infected tissue such as the heart or brain.
The picture to the left displays two combined slides of Ichthyophonus;
The left slide is of infected heart tissue while the right slide is of the mouth area of a different specimen (at 200 time magnification)
A few possible outer symptoms include:
Please note that with Ichthyophonus protists, a fish can have just one of these symptoms, not all symptoms are required as Ichthyophonus can metastasize in many areas of fish anatomy, often the heart or other internal tissues, but sometimes less lethal external nodules may be caused by Ichthyophonus protists.
- Ulcerated small nodules in the skin
- Bulging eyes (from pressure exerted from the infection in the brain)
- Loss of color (similar to Neon Tetra Disease)
- Loss of energy (due to the infection in the heart), as well as ability to swim normally
- Whirling; this is a common symptom that unfortunately usually is one of the final symptoms due to infection in the brain (although this symptom can appear early and be the first symptom).
However this is also a symptom of the disease called "Whirling Disease" caused by the myxozoan parasite Myxobolus cerebralis.
Further Reading/Reference: Whirling Disease (Myxobolus cerebralis) in Fish - Often Fish suffering from a systemic aquarium infection of Ichthyophonus will die off at irregular intervals, which often makes disease identification difficult.
- Since this is a progressive disease that generally affects aged fish, any symptoms that may lead one to believe a diagnosis of Ichthyophonus in young aquarium fish would likely be incorrect.
- Sudden cooling of the water can be allow this disease to go systemic as Ichthyphonus protists/fungi are generally more virulent in colder waters, so this can also be a "symptom" since actual tests are impossible to conduct in live fish (see lower in the article).
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The picture to the left is of a Salmon Heart, cut open to show the Ichthyophonus nodules.
These same nodules can also be present in less fatal external infections (such as on finnage).
Please click the picture for a better view.
Ichthyophonus generally affects fish as an internal fungus, often attacking vital organs such as the liver, kidneys, brain and also the muscles on occasionally. The result is often a deteriorating fish that often stops eating (making medicated foods useless), swimming in circles (loss of equilibrium caused by the infection invading the brain), and loss of color and scales.
The picture to the right shows Ichthyophonus lesions in salmon muscle.
Modes of Transmission to Other Fish (in order of most likely mode of transmission)
- Oral route: Ingestion of infected raw fishes transmits Ichthyophonus. This is probably the most common way from my experience. Fish fed feeder fish I have noted have had a much higher incidence of Ichthyophonus.
- Skin abrasions and/or damaged gills help in transmission of the Ichthyophonus protists.
- Carriers help in spreading of Ichthyophonus protists through fecal discharges.
- The disease can transmitted by contact between diseased fish & healthy one (not well understood).
Potential treatments are:
Methylene Blue Baths or better, Potassium Permanganate Baths, increased salt levels (for fish that will tolerate this) of from 1 -2 tablespoons per 5 net gallons.
If the infection is external (such as nodules), a "Swab" with Potassium Permanganate or even Tincture of Iodine may work well, (so not use either of these treatments in the gills!!).
Generally external nodes/nodules type Ichthyophonus infections are the most treatable.
Reference: Fish Baths, Swabs
Where to purchase:
*Potassium Permanganate; Jungle Clear Water
*Kordon Methylene Blue
Some Organic Treatments such as Pimafix, Kanamycin combined with good electrolyte and calcium levels measured by a GH over 100 ppm can help as a cocktail.
A Medicated Wonder Shell would aid this cocktail by adding more anti fungal/protozoal treatment along with adding important electrolytes and calcium.
Other measures for possible treatment (or more to check the spread) are heat as Ichthyphonus protists are generally more virulent in colder waters, so raising temperatures above 82 F (28 Celsius) can at least aid in checking the spread.
Reference: Organic Fish Treatments
One very potent treatment “cocktail” (combination) is the combination of ParaGuard with AAP Spectrogram or the less synergistic combinations of Kanaplex and Nitrofuarzone (Furan 2).
Please note that this combination is a potent treatment and water parameters should be monitored carefully during this treatment (usually about 7-10 days). This should be used in addition to the before mentioned baths (with Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate) and water parameter corrections (if necessary).
Where to purchase:
*SeaChem ParaGuard, Malachite Green, aldehydes
*AAP Spectrogram
*Furan Two, Nitrofurazone
*SeaChem Kanaplex (Kanamycin)
*Medicated Wonder Shells
However all the above is often in vain, with the one bright spot that these procedures along with UV Sterilization will often check the spread of this disease.
Other important preventatives is to remove suspected fish to a quarantine tank, in fact I strongly recommend this (or simply euthanizing them) as this is commonly spread through the eating of infected fish’ waste by otherwise healthy fish.
Important Reference:
*Aquarium UV Sterilization; Facts & Information
Prevention of Ichthyophonus is definitely the best cure.
Here are a few preventative steps:
- Quarantine or at least give 30 minute medicated baths in Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate.
- Keep optimum water parameters for the fish you are keeping whether FW or saltwater.
For freshwater this includes ammonia/nitrites at 0, nitrates below 50 ppm, a stable pH, and positive ion mineralization for the fish kept (a GH of at least 100 ppm, often higher for many fish).
Reference: Aquarium Chemistry; Depletion of Positive Ions - Regular cleaning procedures
- UV Sterilization via the use of a QUALITY UV Sterilizer (NOT a Green Killing Machine, Submariner, AquaTop, or similar cheap UV Sterilizer that can only perform clarification NOT level one Sterilization)
Reference: Important Basic UV Sterilization Factors
Where to purchase: Basic, Good, Best Aquarium UV Sterilizers - Treatment with Malachite Green/Acriflavin/methylene blue based products such as Medicated Wonder Shells or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Fungus Treatment after suspected Ichthyophonus carrying fish die or are removed.
Where to purchase:
*API Fungus Cure; Acriflavin - Increase salt in aquarium, at least temporarily to the highest levels the fish will tolerate.
See this article for more about salt use:
Salt Use in Freshwater Aquariums - Change your source for new fish, this is not to say that your trusted aquarium/fish store is always a poor source for new fish, however this needs to be ruled out since this disease is generally introduced and often I have had clients with unknown die offs that fit the description of Ichthyophonus, keep having problems with this disease after bleaching the aquarium and re-starting, only to buy new fish from the same source to repeat the problem; often when the source of new fish was changed after a bleaching/sterilization of the aquarium did the disease problems end.
Please read this article for more about aquarium disease prevention:
“Aquarium Disease Prevention”
Please read this article for more about studies of Ichthyophonus in Salmon: “Ichthyophonus Disease”
Other References:
*www.aun.edu.eg/developmentvet/fish%20diseases/4_2.htm
Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites
Freshwater Aquarium Care; Basics to Advanced
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish
Premium UVC Replacement Lamps
For TRUE Premium, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, not the low output bulbs/lamps commonly sold at Amazon & eBay
Premium USDA Aquarium Safe Silicones
*Columnaris & Fungus Infections in Fish
*How Aquarium Medications Work; Part 1
SunSun HBL Power "Hang On Back" (HOB) Aquarium Filter
211 Gallons Per Hour Flow Rate (800 LPH)
For Aquariums up to 40-45 Gallons
The best in Quartz, Under gravel, and Titanium Submersible Heaters:
AquaRay Ultra Premium Aquarium LED Lights
Highest in PUR, The ONLY LED with an IP67 rating or higher for water proofing along with a full 5 year warranty to back them up!
Why purchase brands without this rating such as the Finnex, Current, or Fluval only to be essentially placing an electronic light emitting device over your humid aquarium with little or no guarantee? In the long term, you WILL PAY MORE!
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Labels: aquarium, freshwater, fungus, Ichthyophonus, marine, metastasize, Necropsy, nodules, protists, symptoms, treatment, UV Sterilization
Aquarium Heaters; Review, Size, Heater Information
By Carl Strohmeyer- PAMR 40+ years experience
- Heater Overview
- Set Up Suggestions
- Heater Problems
- Types of Aquarium Heaters
- Summary
Updated 11/18/19
Aquarium Heaters have come a long way since I first named this article, as many years back there were just the automatic (non pre-set) hang on the back heaters or the submersible glass pre-set (thermostatic) heaters.
Now even in the glass/quartz submersible heaters, they can vary greatly in size and accuracy of the pre-set and variances of 3 degrees Fahrenheit in either direction.
We have Titanium Heaters, Digital Heaters, as well as the popular relatively newer heater type; the under-gravel or “Mini” heater that has no temperature controls at all, and are simply meant to raise the ambient temperature in a Betta bowl or similar.
The above stated, the proper, correct use remains basically the same, so please read the entire article, including potential "heater Problems".
HEATER MATCHING FORMULA: (© Carl Strohmeyer)
As for heating requirements, I recommend 25 watts of heater for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature per 10 gallons you need to raise your aquarium temperature.
EXAMPLE: If your home is 68 degrees and you have a 40 gallon aquarium, to reach a temperature of 78 degrees you would need a 100 watt heater.
Often when heater problems occur it is due to the heater being of the improper wattage to meet heating requirements of an aquarium in the location it occupies. Too high a wattage can result in rapid temperature rises that can result in cooked fish if you make adjustment mistakes.
The above formula is a VERY accurate guide and I have used this formula for many years with no issues of under or over heating. In fact I have often witnessed less than honest retailers tell a customer that (for example) they need two 300 watt heaters for their 125 gallon aquarium when in reality ONLY ONE is required for the average room that is kept at 68 degrees during the cooler hours (usually at night while asleep).
So PLEASE be careful with stores or web sites that try and over sell you as to your heater needs as this can actually be problematic in case of a rare malfunction.
Also, if your room is warm (such as in summer months) you may end up with aquarium temperatures higher than your settings (example: a room that is 85 will keep an aquarium at 85 even if your heater is set at 78 F).
It is important of all heaters, regardless of type to maintain good circulation around the heater for the best results for temperature control and accuracy. I have used (& even designed my own) heater modules for in-line heater applications and I will be the first to admit these do not properly dissipate the heat, especially with titanium heaters.
Even though I really like the durability of Titanium Heaters, these types of submersible aquarium heater are best used inside the main display aquarium where the heat will dissipate more rapidly than in a sump or similar enclosed space. I have witnessed Titanium Heaters (of different brands) over heat and burn out when used in small sumps or heater modules. I recommend using a glass or quartz submersible heater in sumps or similar as glass submersible heaters do not seem to be as sensitive to this problem.
Another point is often when the ambient temperature is more than 25° F (14° C) under the desired temperature, the use of two appropriately sized* heaters often works better from my experience.
*By appropriately sized, I mean using the above cited formula.
As well, on the "top end", aquarium heaters are designed only for a top temperature of 90° to 95°F (32° to 35°C), so attempting to heat any higher will likely result in failure and even damage to the to heater.
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- When ANY heater is to be initially used, you should place the heater in the aquarium for 20-30 minutes prior to plugging it in so as to allow the temperatures to equalize internally.
With low end Automatic Hang on the Back heaters make sure that the water is up to the water line, if too high or low this can cause heater failure or malfunction.
With pre-set submersible you need to make sure that the heater is submersed at least to the minimum water line.
Since Automatic Heaters generally do not have temperature pre sets, all inputs of temperature control on the dial should be made in increments of not more than ¼ turn, with 1/8 turn being better. - With Pre-sets and digital heater controls, I recommend to not change temperature more than 4-5 degrees F per day if fish are present (this does not matter if there are no fish or other “creatures” present).
Also make note that temperature pre-sets are just a guide and that it is quite common to set a heater at 75 F and have the actual temperature be plus or minus 3 degrees F. - If two heaters of more than enough "Wattage" are employed in a tank, I suggest adjusting each one individually over a few days time prior to running the heaters together.
An example would be two 200 Watt Heaters in a 100 gallon aquarium.
I have found that when two heaters are used for whatever reason (although usually for redundancy), it is easier to "set" correctly with one heater running at a time.
However if two heaters are used that require the combined wattage for properly heating an aquarium based on ambient temperature; both would need to be set at the same time, which often results in a bit of heater "ping pong" since even the best heaters are often off in their settings by a degree or two. - Make sure a "drip loop" is employed with any heater installation so that the power cord coming from the aquarium or sump does go straight to the electrical socket; rather a loop (a 'U' in the power cord) is utilized that allows any water that can possibly follow the cord from entering the wall socket and starting a fire.
Many manufacturers of heaters will discourage the use of power strips for "Legal" reasons, however these can be safely used if properly attached to the aquarium stand or wall so that ALL power cords have a drip loop prior to plugging into the power strip.
Be careful with the use of extension cords as these can more easily allow water following the cord to enter the socket.
As well any coiled extension can allow over heating of insulation allowing for the possibility of a fire, so make sure to keep any extension cords from being coiled.
My suggestion, if an extension must be used, is to use a singe outlet 14 gauge or lower, heavy duty electrical extension cord. Make sure it is NO LONGER than needed (no unnecessary length), as well, I suggest a small bead of silicone around where both power cords connect to prevent moisture for getting in (since silicone does not adhere that well to the material used for power cords, the silicone forms an excellent gasket that is also easily removed when the need to disconnect arises). - After you set up a glass or quartz aquarium heater, it is quite common to see condensation moisture inside the heater tube.
This is not a concern for alarm unless liquid is actually accumulating inside the heater tube.
I have witnessed this many times over the 4 decades I have kept aquariums professionally and sometimes it goes away and sometimes these few droplets of moisture seem to always be present when the heater is on. What I also know for sure is I have never had this shorten the life of any heater (out of 1000s used with my many clients aquarium). - With large fish that can be destructive such as Pacus or Oscars, I will protect glass or quartz heaters with large/heavy rocks, then add an air stone/diffuser in or by these rocks to make sure good circulation is provided in and around the heater (a circuclation pump can also be employed, although I have had these same "monster fish" knock them to the side).
An example of where I employed this strategy was at the Bahooka Restaurant.
POTENTIAL HEATER PROBLEMS
All heaters eventually fail, however how catastrophic this failure might be can be limited by correct use and correct information.
For me with literally 1000s of aquariums under my care, I can think of only two times a heater malfunction was catastrophic!! So my point is heater failure need not be a major concern if properly installed, maintained, etc.
HOWEVER we have a popular discount online reef and general aquarium supply outlet allegedly misinforming aquarium keepers in one of their videos (about fish feeding) that heater malfunction is one of the top two reasons for total aquarium failure.
This sadly shows a total lack of experience or use of mentoring by these persons (I myself was mentored by many & still am), but worse IMHO is this is irresponsible to scare aquarium keepers WITH SUCH BAD INFORMATION!
This has led to another popular concept of late, heater controllers.
My question though is WHY?
Is the aquarium keeper purchasing a heater that is so inaccurate that this is the only way to keep a heater working correctly?
The facts are that even the best of heaters have some variances, but these are quickly figured out thus requiring a slight change in setting of the pre-set number. Example setting the heater at 78F results in 76F, so turning the heater up slightly to 80F keeps it at 78F; PROBLEM SOLVED!
Now if the reason for this controller is because of use of a heater in a separate module, this will only address the poor temperate regulation issue of using such a component creates, it does not address the aspect that these shorten an aquarium heater's lifespan due to poor circulation.
If the reason for using these controllers is to prevent catastrophic over heating, well I already addressed this incorrect assumption for a properly installed heater. Most failures, by a large margin, result in the heater simply ceasing function, so is the controller going to rush out and purchase you a new heater???
In the end, this so-called new new idea/trend strikes me as another version of the must have a RO/DI system over a good RO only system shilling myth to part you from your money.
By following some bullet points, catastrophic failures should be a VERY rare occurrence.
- Do not "over watt" you heater. By doing this, then a relatively rare "stuck on" heater occurrence happens, the potential for disaster is much higher.
Better is to use the formula I provided or even consider multiple heaters to reach the wattage that maintains correct temperature.
This is the NUMBER ONE reason for catastrophic failure - Similar to above except this time is under-watting a heater.
A common problem is a client/customer will have an aquarium that requires 'X' watts to maintain a specified temperature over the ambient room temperature, but the hearer used is slightly under the optimum wattage.
What often happens is the heater is inadvertently set at a high position on the dial, so when the ambient temperature of the room goes up in spring or the water level is dropped, the aquarium temperature starts to rise higher than what the aquarium keeper set it at, often resulting in the aquarium keeping thinking that the heater was/is defective when in fact it is not, the heater is simply keeping the temperature at what the internal preset is dialed in to. - Leaving the heater partly out of the water when changing water. This will damage the heater, often with the problem caused by this damage not showing up immediately.
- Similar to above, most modern submersible heaters are designed to function FULLY SUBMERSED! This means if the heater is partially exposed to air (often via evaporation), the heater will often fail to regulate temperature correctly
- Not protecting the heater for destructive fish than can damage the heater such as by undermining a rock that then falls on the heater.
- Poor Water circulation around the heater.
- Poorly positioned heaters. While many heaters can be both vertical or horizontal, I have found that vertical is still best and with some poorly sealed heaters, A MUST!
- As pointed out later in "In-Line Heater Modules" section, these do not allow for optimal heater function. I do not care what brand, including DIY (as I too attempted to build one), these WILL AND DO lead to premature heater failure, although admittedly not always catastrophic.
- While a bit more subjective, as well as constantly changing due to new heaters constantly emerging; poor heater quality is certainly an issue.
So trying to save a few dollars by shopping at discounters such as Amazon, is not worth the potential problems. Stick with proven heaters such as the Via Aqua, Ebo Jager, Tronic, and others. - As a summary, I can categorically state based on experience with literally 1000s of aquarium heaters, that most all failures can be traced back to user error (this included my own).
Even minor problems of too warm one day and too cool another is often the result of poor placement, poorly sized heaters, not properly submersed, use in an inline heater module, etc.
PRESET HEATERS; Thermostatic (Analog) Submersible Glass or Quartz Heaters:
The Thermostatic or Preset Heater has a built in analog thermostat (or a remote sensor, as is common in many titanium aquarium heaters).
These heaters may use a thermostat, usually monitoring the impedance of a thermistor (a resistor used to measure temperature changes in the aquarium, relying on the change in its resistance with changing temperatures), OR the potential across a thermocouple (a temperature sensor used to measure electric potential difference).
As noted at earlier, most Pre-Set Submersible Glass Heaters have some variances, however that said the biggest difference between different brands is not this variance, but in quality of durability, price, and even manufacture return policies.
I have used MANY different heaters over the years in my service business (the numbers are literally in the 1000s) and what often happens is the heater either ceases to work or the variance becomes greater. As well, many of the name brand Heaters are often no better with this than others.
An example would be the excellent Hagen Tronic Heater, which is an excellent and durable heater, but it is more costly than the Via Aqua, SunSun or other lesser known brands of often equal or even better quality.
Another problem I have found is that some excellent heaters such as the Ebo Jager have difficult return policies whereby I could not accept a customer return directly to me, rather I had to send these directly to their manufacturer all the while the customer was without their heater. This is the reason I ceased recommending these heaters for my clients (not because of frequent quality issues; but lets face it, even the best heater fails occasionally).
Recommended Quality Heater Product Resource:
Aquarium Heaters
There are many models of aquarium heaters available today that are available preset or with a temperature gauge on the side of the heater or on the control knob to help the aquarist set the temperature, most all of these heaters are completely submersible as well.
These Submersible Thermostatic Heaters should be kept under water or NO higher above water than the minimum water line mark that most of these heater have, generally about 2-4 cm below the top of the heater. There is some confusion that these heaters cannot be submerged totally, however I have never used or found a brand of Pre-set thermostatic glass/quartz submersible heater that this is a problem.
The aquarist should allow the heater to adjust to water temperature for 30 minutes before plugging in this type of heater to allow the thermostat to adjust. Use these settings on the dial as a guide to make fine adjustments, as they should NOT be depended upon for total accuracy.
Though some manufacturers make other claims, these gauges are at best accurate within two or three degrees Fahrenheit (one to one and a half degrees Celsius), and sometimes get less accurate over the life of the heater.
An aquarist should ALWAYS CHECK their heater for accuracy and not assume that because it is set at 78 F, it will stay at 78 F.
Pre-set Temperature Numbers:
It is not un-common for even the best of these heaters to be off from their “pre-settings” by a few degrees (sometimes several degrees). This does not have any bearing on how reliable the heater will be once set, only the starting point.
So for instance if your pre-setting takes a setting of 74 F to maintain 78 F (& 78 is what you desire), you should use the setting of 74 F.
Some heaters (such as older Ebo Jager heaters), had NO MARKINGS on the protected heater dial; you simply let the heater adjust to water temperature, then turn until the light comes on and make adjustments from there until your desired temperature is maintained. My personal opinion is this is a better method, but most persons like the preset numbers, despite these flaws, so most manufacturers have these settings.
I would recommend turning off all heaters when water is to be changed that would expose any part of the heater sensors or heating elements (which is usually most water changes).
I recommend waiting at about 10 – 15 minutes for water and heater temperatures to equalize before re-starting a heater after a water change
For Further Reference:
Aquarium Cleaning; Basic Steps
Submersible Heater Brand Suggestions:
I have been asked this question many times, so I will include my observations of common submersible heater brands.
Please note that while this is obviously subjective; with the many brands I have literally used and dozens if not 100s of each brand, I have had a reasonable amount of experience in this subject.
All three of these suggested heaters have accuracy that are more than good enough for most aquarium applications (+/- 1-2 F). In fact, the accuracy with these (and likely some others not listed here) is very close to many heater including Titanium that cost considerably more.
These suggestions are based on my professional use in my aquarium maintenance business going back to 1978 and literally 1000s of aquariums.
A final note is I am only naming those I have had a good experience with, NOT the bad ones!
*Ebo Jager (Eheim); Excellent and very reliable heater. One of the best if not the best.
The only negatives are price and a poor return policy when the rare defective heater does occur that requires the owner to ship directly back to Eheim/Ebo Jager while the aquarium keeper is without a heater for several weeks.
There were some quality issues when manufacturing changed, but this has been corrected according my friends active in the aquarium maintenance industry.
*Via Aqua & SunSun; While not as well known in some parts of North America, this heater IS well known & popular in the Western USA.
This heater is among the best in reliability (the Ebo Jager is likely the only more reliable heater), yet is one of the more affordable with a more gracious return policy when a defective heater does occur.
Product Resource Link:
Via Aqua Submersible Quartz Aquarium Heaters
*Hagen Fluval Tronic Submersible Heater: While I am not a fan of Hagen (in part due to their business practices), I have to admit this heater is darn good.
It is a reliable heater, albeit a little pricey compared to the Via Aqua, but just as reliable and quite accurate.
CAUTIONS
Generally most manufacturers of quartz/glass and titanium submersible heaters will state in their directions that the heater should be mounted in the aquarium vertically for the reason to keep water from compromising the seal at the top, this is really only a corporate liability statement as most well made glass submersible heaters such as the Via Aqua Glass/Quartz Heaters will be perfectly fine angled to fit in short aquariums or outdoor patio ponds.
I have mounted many submersible heaters for years in a sideways/horizontal mount without a compromise in the seal. This does NOT count for HOB economy automatic heaters which MUST be mounted on the back of the tank vertically.
However I do recommend a vertical aquarium mount whenever possible.
DIGITAL HEATERS
This is more of a sub-type of the glass submersible heater, however the manufactures of the these Digital Aquarium Heaters throw in more extensive digital control circuitry.
A few of the advantages over most glass submersible analog heaters (of which the vast majority of submersible aquarium heaters fall into this category) include:
*Run Dry Safety Shut-Off
*Double insulated heating element
*More accurate temperature control (variances under +- 1.0 F).
*Easy to read display the also displays aquarium temperature (via probe attached to this heater)
*HOWEVER from our use (& our "sister" aquarium maintenance companies), these heaters circuitry (such as the AquaTop) have failed at a much higher rate than the 3% or less that is considered "Good" for electronics.
So my current advice is to AVOID these heaters.
RESIN/PLASTIC COVERED HEATER
A Sub type of the Glass Submersible Pre-Set Heater the plastic resin covered aquarium heater. The Rena “Smart” Heater is a good example of this heater type. It has a low temperature variance with an LED warning alert system that flashes when water is +/- 5º F from set point. As well the SmartHeater works in any position, horizontal or vertical.
Another is the Stealth (by Marineland). This unique submersible glass heater has a hard plastic “Shell” which protects the heater from breakage.
However, please note that my experience with the Marineland Stealth Heaters indicate that they should also not be used in confined spaces or low water volume applications. I have also noticed (in part from feedback from others in the professional aquarium maintenance business) that the Marineland Stealth heater is not as accurate or as durable (generally in low flow applications) as the higher end Via Aqua Titanium Heater or the very high end Pro-Heat II Titanium IC Heaters.
My experience with the other Marineland submersible heater; the “Visitherm” has been worse with LOW accuracy/durability in varied conditions, at least the Stealth is accurate and reasonably reliable in higher flow aquarium placement applications.
TITANIUM/ STAINLESS STEEL/ REMOTE SENSOR HEATERS
Titanium and Remote Sensor Heaters such as the Via Aqua Titanium heater, both the earlier generation analog and next generation digital Titanium.
The advantage to these heaters is three fold;
One is that they tend to be even more accurate by having the sensor far from the heating element.
Two, besides improved accuracy of a remote sensor, the accuracy is further improved by the Digital electronics of the newest generation Titanium Heaters.
Three; the Titanium (and also Stainless Steel) heaters are much more durable and difficult to break especially with large fish such as Oscars.
These heaters also resist breakage due to aquarist mistakes such as leaving them on during water changes or dropping rocks on them (although Titanium heaters still can be damaged by leaving them on during a water change).
I think Titanium Heaters are your best choice for very large aquariums and for aquariums with large and destructive fish such as Arowanas, Oscars or even Turtle tanks (provided there is adequate water volume).
Also if accuracy of temperature control coupled with durability is important, especially with marine aquariums or Discus aquariums, the Digital Titanium is for you.
Titanium Heaters are NOT as good a choice for placing in confined spaces such as sumps, low water tanks (such as Viviariums) or filters such as the ReSun Internal Wet Dry Filter as Titanium heaters tend to easily overheat in confined spaces.
In the case of a sump, the reasons for spending extra for a Titanium heater which are impact resistance and the remote sensor are lost in this small space where the remote sensor is of little advantage and as well no fish are present that might damage a more fragile glass or quartz heater.
Product Resources:
*Via Aqua Next Generation Digital Titanium Heaters
*ReSun Biological Internal Wet/Dry Filter
IN-LINE AQUARIUM HEATERS (or In-Filter Heaters)
The inline aquarium heater has come in and out of popularity in a few variations since at least the 1970s.
One form was the "heater module" in which to place your standard submersible heater inside of this "module". An example is the Lifeguard Heater Module which is the one I used the most; in fact I even designed one many years back to sell and utilize in my aquarium maintenance business.
Of late many other DIY versions have shown up on popular YouTube DIY channels
Another variation is the specific in-line aquarium heater such as the Hydor ETH pictured here to the left.
The third method (more similar to the first) is the use of canister aquarium filters with specific ports in which to place your heater.
This all said, all these methods have one thing in common from considerable use/experience on my part (as well as others who have been in the industry/hobby for some time), and that is these inline heaters often are NOT that accurate and more importantly cause heaters to fail at a much higher rate that more conventional aquarium heating methods.
This is why I stopped selling and making my own heater module as the failure rates and poor heating results were no better with my "invention" than others no matter how much I "tweaked it".
Part of the reason is the confined space does not allow for accurate temperature reading from the heaters sensors. As well this confined space often results in too much heat inside this unit that contains the actual heater/heating element, resulting in overheats and premature heater failure.
The bottom line is although on the surface this may seem like a good idea, in practicality it is a flawed idea that has been doomed to failure in every design I have tried or designed.
Unfortunately as with many already proven failed ideas, this one has once again been resurrected by a popular DIY YouTube channel. I think the problem is we have too many persons coming up with great ideas without any real practical experience, nor any research or willingness to learn from others who have much more practical experience (mentoring IMO is something I allowed myself to do in my early years, but seems to be a lost art from what I have seen and attacks made online).
If you desire this method due to large and destructive fish, consider a Titanium Heater.
If your reason is less equipment in the aquarium, consider placing your heater in a large sump system with much better circulation around the heater.
Of course this option is not possible to the majority of readers, so my suggestion is to simply hide your heater with decor, make sure to have a drip loop for safety, and simply realize that this minor inconvenience of a heater inside your aquarium is better than a failed heater or over heat of your aquarium.
One final issue with in-line heaters if used with an in-line UV Sterilizer, do NOT use together or at the very least use after the UV Sterilizer.
The reason? These heaters are notorious for having hot spots in the water just after the heater than can over heat a UV lamp and considerably shorten life, especially in low flow applications.
AUTOMATIC OR NON-PRESET HEATERS (Hang on the Back Heaters)
The Non-Preset or Automatic heater such as the basic Radiant Heater has a very remedial thermostat; or better they have metal contacts that are tightened by turning the dial (metal contacts installed on bi-metal lead, which are brought together with an adjusting screw).
When the heater is "turned up" or tightened, it turns on for longer periods of time. In other words these heaters are “automatic” not thermostatic as they do not go on based on water temperatures, rather the “time” it takes for a contact to “break” due to the tightness of the adjustment.
These heaters need adjustments between summer and winter.
Examples of this heater are the Radiant by Hagen, or even the old Metaframe heaters. Sometimes these heaters are all some aquarists can fit or afford on their tank (although Thermostatic heaters have come down in price a lot), but I have seen many an aquarist cook their fish with these, as subtle changes in the dial often over correct and a sudden ambient warm spell is often not corrected for.
With these heaters it is imperative that the water level is kept up to the proper level as marked on the heater or they may crack, it is also important to check these for seasonal variations (Summer/Winter), as these heaters adjust poorly for these.
These should not be used in a room or garage with wide temperature swings as they will not generally adjust properly. Adjustments with these heaters should be made at no more than 1/8 turn at a time then wait for about two hours before the next adjustment.
As with other heaters it is a good idea to place the heater in the tank and wait for 30 minutes before plugging in (although this is less important with these automatic heaters).
Adjustments should be made very gradually and it is easier to adjust these heaters if you start out at our near the desired temperature, otherwise you may be in for a roller coaster of adjustments.
OTHER AQUATIC HEATING DEVICES; Including Under Gravel Mini Heaters:
As for heating betta in a small tank or bowl, this can be difficult with even the smallest aquarium heaters as they tend to be less accurate in very small volumes of water.
One new method for heating bowls or small aquariums under 5 gallons are the Hydor Mini Undergravel Heaters.
These heaters are completely submersible, easy to hide in mini tanks and bowls and safe even under gravel. There is no controller for this type of heater, instead the Mini undergravel heater simply increases the ambient surrounding temperature a certain number of degrees based on the volume of water.
For example, the Hydor 7.5 watt Mini Heater will increase temperature 5 degrees F (2.5 C) for a 2.5 gallon aquarium.
Product Resource: Hydor Mini Undergravel Heaters
I have used (also for my clients) infrared reptile lamps or infrared heating elements placed in desk lamp over the tanks with the distance set according to the temperature desired (the infrared heating elements are generally more pricey and not worth the extra money for a fish, unlike a reptile).
The distance will need to vary based on ambient room temperature. The nice part about using these reptile infrared lights is that they do not interfere with the day/night cycle of the fish the way a white light or even a blue light will.
These are actually quite accurate when used correctly.
SUMMARY:
When choosing the right heater you need to factor your budget, tank size, fish size potential, ambient room temperature variation, and temperature sensitivity.
For example: a 10 gallon (35 liter) aquarium with platies and guppies would probably be fine with an inexpensive Automatic Heater, the same for a small Betta Tank. But if this tank was in say a shed where temperatures vary greatly, even this example would be better of with a Preset Submersible heater (for Bettas I have also used infrared reptile lamps in desk lamps to maintain temperature successfully while still allowing day/night cycles).
Another example would be fish such as Oscars; with Oscars I would recommend the stainless steel or Titanium heaters as these fish can get rambunctious.
A third example would be marine fish; marine fish generally are not accustomed to much if any temperature swings so a Preset (thermostatic) heater would also be suggested here.
Finally for any larger aquarium (40 gallon +), a Preset heater just makes more sense in my opinion.
Other Suggested Resources, Products
*
AQUARIUM AND POND INFORMATION;
Well researched and up to date aquarium and pond answers, help, and links
Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish
Aquarium/Pond UV Sterilization
This article covers many aspects of Aquarium & Pond UV Sterilization from how, why, facts, myths, and maintenance including the importance of changing UV Bulbs regularly.
UV Bulbs
As noted above, changing these bulbs/lamps every 6-12 months is essential for a properly functioning UV Sterilizer
*Aquarium Silicone Sealant; USDA 100% Fish Safe
100% Fish Safe, USDA & Agricultre Canada approved.
The same CANNOT be said for Hardware Store brands!!
*
Aquarium Lighting
The above article is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Aquarium Lighting to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!
*Columnaris in Aquarium Fish (also Fungus)
As with the "Aquarium Lighting " article, this is easily the most in depth and regularly updated on the subject of Columnaris and Fish Fungus to be found ANYWHERE on the Internet!
*Power Head, & Water Pump Review; Aquarium & Pond
Another article from this website that reviews aquarium water pumps from a professional "hands on" prospective
Economy Submersible Aquarium, Fountain Pumps; SunSun JP-033
A better, UPDATED version of the Via Aqua 302 with SUPERIOR Performance, unlike other pumps sold elsewhere as a replacement
*Aquarium Information, Directory
Decorative Coral
Aquarium Decorations such as:
*Plastic Aquarium Plants
*Aquarium Driftwood
API/Rena Filstar High Performance Canister Filters & Parts
Premium Canister Aquarium Filters
LED Aquarium Lights, Lighting
A unique web site with great insights into what determines the best in aquarium LED light fixtures
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Labels: Aquarium Heater, Automatic Heater, Digital Heater, freshwater, Glass Heater, Hydro ETH, In-Line, marine, Preset, saltwater, Stealth Heater, Titanium Heater
Cyclops, Are these freshwater copepods dangerous in an Aquarium?
Information about Cyclops and also Predatory Damselfly larvae that occasionally find their way into aquariums and especially ponds
QUESTION: I have these bugs in my aquarium; they are very small about 2-3 mm long with one black eye in the middle of its head. It is grayish in color. It goes jerking through water in rather spastic motions. ADVERTISEMENT REPRODUCTION: CONCLUSION (& Removal): Other Recommended Reference & Product Sites
ADVERTISEMENT Labels: copepods, Cyclops, Damselfly larvaeAquarium, dangerous, freshwater, Predatory
What are these?
ANSWER:
Is this your bug?
This is one possibility, which is a Cyclops (a type of copepod); they range in size from 1-3 mm. It is called a Cyclops because of the single eye spot. This female carries two packages of eggs near the base of her tail. The Cyclops has 5 pair of legs and a divided tail-like appendage called a furca (A forked process as the last abdominal segment of certain crustaceans).
Cyclops are crustaceans and related to lobsters, crabs and shrimp.
A little about Cyclops;
HABITAT: Cyclops live in freshwater, such as ponds and lakes. They prefer areas of still water with a lot of algae.
THEIR PLACE IN THE FOOD CHAIN:
Cyclops are omnivores; they eat algae, small animals, detritus but not usually fish. But weak fry MAY be harmed by these copepods.
Some species of Cyclops are not free-living, existing instead as fish parasites, but these are not common.
Tropical and native fish enthusiasts utilize the cyclopoids as a high protein live fish food, especially for immature fishes, and in a fair twist of fate, some Cyclops species have been found feasting on larval fishes, particularly in fish hatcheries.
For more about proper fish food nutrition:
Fish Nutrition; What ingredients are needed for best fish nutrition, growth and health
Cyclops are generally eaten by Phantom Midge Larvae and water mites.
The female Cyclops carries her eggs at the back of her body. There are fewer males than females present in the population, and the males are smaller.
Females are often observed while swimming to have paired egg sacs, and most of the species are capable of explosive outbreaks when the water temperature and other conditions are optimal.
DAMSELFLY LARVAE: 
Another possibility is a larval damselfly, which are much larger, about 1/4" or more (although this does not fit the above description, however I have seen these in ponds).
The larval damselfly is more predatory, but will not reproduce in your aquarium (unless you have damselflies flying around the inside of your home!).
These are best hand removed (or vacuumed). Once these are gone, they are gone!
Cyclops can also be intermediary hosts to the Guinea worm (which affects humans, but not generally fish) and fish tapeworm.
These are rare occurrences for the Cyclops, and many aquarists consider them valuable as a fish food and even sell them.
I would not be overly concerned with them for most aquariums as long as good aquarium cleaning methods, such as vacuuming are practiced; in fact as noted earlier they actually make a nutritious fish food.
The exception would probably be with fish breeding. In this case, vacuuming gravel and rinsing off live plants in a mild bleach solution (live plants can handle a 25/1 solution provided it is rinsed off) would be in order. Keep in mind that these copepods do not like areas of high current and do like a lot of algae, so changing these conditions would go a long way in controlling Cyclops.
Gravel Vacuum Product Link: Aquarium Vacuums
If normal maintenance methods fail to remove the Cyclops or similar Copepods, chemical removal methods can be used.
There are four methods I have used and can recommend based on results and safety (there may be other methods):
This is probably the quickest/most effective method of copepod removal that never fails when used as per directions. The problem with Clout is there are many fish that this product should not be used with, including: Piranhas, Silver Dollars, Tinfoil Barbs, Metynnis species, scaleless fish, bottom feeders.
Effective for the treatment of Chilodinella, Trichodina, and most external parasitic protozoan infections
An excellent choice for worms in particular, but also for general internal and external parasite control.
Superior in safety to Fenbendazole & Levamisole. More effective than Praziquantel
Do not use Ich treatments or other single cell parasite treatments.
Treatment Method Product Links:
*Cupramine from AAP
*AAP Paracide
*AAP Dyacide (Dylox)
*AAP Piperazine/Pipzine
For other Fish Food Product Resources:
*Fish Foods; Hikari, Spirulina 20, Aqua Master, Kahoja
-A useful source for current Aquarium & Pond Information and Resources
*Aquarium, Fish Parasites, Worms; Planaria, Nematodes, Detritus, Anchor
*Aquarium Ich, Treatment, Prevention
*Planaria or Detritus Worms in Aquarium?
UV-C Replacement Bulbs Page 1
For TRUE High Output, Hot Cathode, Low Pressure UVC Germicidal Bulbs, for aquarium or pond
Nutramar Nori- Seaweed
An excellent food source for many Herbivores
Aquarium Lighting, Complete Information
AAP JT-132 Pro Pump; Aquarium Power Head Water Pumps
Superior performance and value when compared to many more well known brands such as Hagen or Marineland
Cyanobacteria; Blue Green/Red Slime Algae in Aquariums & Ponds
Cyanobacteria (Red/Orange Slime, Blue Green Algae) in Aquariums, as well as related studies in this bacterial plague affecting lakes and other natural bodies of water and how this research can relate to aquariums.
Sections Include
- General Research Overview
- Cyanobacteria Basics
- Treatment for Cyanobacteria/Red Slime in Saltwater and Freshwater Aquariums
By Carl Strohmeyer
Updated 1/22/19
This article starts off with a generalized section about Blue- green algae (Cyanobacteria) blooms (mostly in lakes), then goes into more depth about Cyanobacteria and finally aquarium applications/treatments.
FORWARD FROM GENERAL RESEARCH (not necessarily aquariums):
First, over the years, I have dealt with Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria) many times in my aquarium maintenance business. The key to eradication is finding the root cause, understanding it, and then correcting it.
We also have a lot of Blue Green Algae problems here in the lakes of Oregon (it's not even a true algae, rather modified bacteria; Cyanobacteria). I understand that the out breaks are different from aquariums, but there are similarities too. I've done some research on this subject, including reading the local newspapers about treatment and control in our local lakes.
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A few points from my Aquarium Research and General Cyanobacteria Research:
(1) Lighting- most research seems to indicate that the type of light affects the growth of Cyanobacteria. In fact, effective PAR light that is less in the yellow nanometers bands may be one of the major factors in control of Blue/Green, Red Slime Algae growth. This is in both salt and fresh water. In controlled experiments with Fluorescent and 6500K lights, changing to true noon-time tropical sun 6500K lighting reduced the amount of Cyanobacteria.
As well, I've noted that many freshwater lake Cyanobacterial outbreaks happen around June and July. In the more northern latitudes (often around the 45th parallel) the lighting factor here will be more affected by seasonal changes in light than middle latitudes.
Cyanobacteria utilize light in regions with low near infrared. These bacteria make use of the unusable light discarded by the plant kingdom, in this case, light outside the PAR range required by plants (technically PUR). This is why Cyanobacteria thrive in lighting conditions that include the more yellow 4000 K and below and why actinic as well as BALANCED light in the 6500 K range keep this bacteria from thriving.
Research shows that while most plants utilize light at 435nm and 675nm (again the primary “spikes” in PAR known as PUR), Red Slime Cyanobacteria (& other Red True Algae), utilize more of the middle yellow and green light spectrum that is most common in poor fluorescent and incandescent lighting; this is an important point.
What is also key is not all 6500K lights are equal as just as with paint, different light spectrums ("colors") can be mixed to make a specific Kelvin color temperature.
"High End" LED fixtures such as TMC AquaBeam and GroBeam models have spectrums with much less of this useless light spectrum that Cyanobacteria thrive on.
Unfortunately many of the popular LED sold by discounters such as the Current Satellite, Fluval, & Finnex have much of their light in the middle spectrums preferred by Cyanobacteria due to their mix of emitters. The use of warm while lights or emitters are like cyanobacteria "magnets" based on my experience.
Product Resource:
TMC AquaBeam and GroBeam LED Lights
As well even fluorescent lights that start out with reasonable spectrums WILL degrade and after one year of normal use (on/off 12 hour cycles) with much more yellow light that again Cyanobacteria thrive on. So replacing your fluorescent lights annually is important.
The picture to the left demonstrates the factual difference in light spectrum in two 6500K lights, one new and one older (click to enlarge).
Unfortunately I have read some Reef Keeping forum posts arguing that there is no difference in light spectrums of lights of the same Kelvin temperature claiming this is a miss-understanding of light Kelvin; however simple Spectrograms show this is a patently false statement as spectrums from two 6500K or other Kelvin light is often different, whether it be an older versus newer version of the same light or two different brands of 6500K, 10,000K, etc. LED lights!
A study I have conducted (although limited) with a marine tank with a history of Red Slime Cyanobacteria:
- This tank was running with fluorescent 10,000 K & Actinic lights (Coralife. water parameters were within "specs" (Alkalinity, pH, Nitrates, etc.), and regular water changes were being conducted
- The lighting was then switched to full spectrum LED lights including blue emitters
- The immediate results were the elimination of the Red Slime Cyanobacteria (& increased growth of green algae). This shows a direct correlation between Red Slime Cyanobacteria & lighting!
- I do not claim these results will be the same with every aquarium, HOWEVER based on this simple experiment, one can reason that lighting certainly has affects on algae growth.
A resource for: New generation, full spectrum LED aquarium lighting from AAP
The Compact Fluorescents, SHO daylight, T5, or T2 daylight are still an improvement over older style T8 & T12.
This is especially true when full spectrum 6400-6700K lights are used (not the 10,000 K often recommended), However, as my tests showed, even switching out with these more advanced fluorescent lights did NOT achieve the dramatic results that high percentage PUR LED lighting produced (only slight improvements).
A lighting resource:
Helios new generation VHO bulbs, fixtures
SHO, super high output bulbs
Clamp on LED Aquarium Lights
In saltwater aquariums, a simple improvement in overhead lighting, good vacuuming procedures, and a additional UV Sterilization (properly installed) will rid the tank of this problem most of the time.
With ponds, make sure opaque awnings that block UVB while primarily allowing yellow and green light spectrums are not used.
For further information about lighting, please read this article: Aquarium Lighting
(2) Heat/Water Flow- In high summer temperatures with poor in and out flow of water, this will induce an outbreak. This also may relate to the Redox Potential (Balance), I recommend reading more about this here:
THE REDOX POTENTIAL IN AQUARIUMS (& PONDS); and how it relates to proper aquatic health
Fresh water and good Redox Balance seems to play major a role. In lakes this bloom will usually coincide with poor inflow and outflow of water. This also causes a change in trace element content as well as Redox. This can then be applied to aquariums; in maintaining regular water changes, maintaining a GH over 100 ppm (for calcium and trace elements), as well as correct Redox Balance (UV Sterilization helps here too). Applying this knowledge can be an important part of the Cyanobacteria eradication puzzle as some of my observations/experiments have shown.
(3) Nutrients- The amount of nitrogen based and phosphate nutrients need to be reduced.
As this relates to aquariums, I would increase circulation, clean and vacuum the bottom every other day, cover the aquarium from light for three days, reduce the temperature, consider UV Sterilization to kill free floating cyanobacterium, and reduce the nutrient level.
CYANOBACTERIA BASICS:
Knowing more about this “algae” is important for eradication.
Going deeper-
Though Cyanobacteria do not have a great diversity of forms and though they are microscopic, they are rich in chemical diversity. Cyanobacteria get their name from the bluish pigment Phycocyanin, which they use to capture light for photosynthesis.
Phycocyanin is a Phycobilins which are useful to organisms that use them for soaking up light energy.
They also contain Chlorophyll; the same photosynthetic pigment that plants use. In fact the Chloroplast in plants is a symbiotic cyanobacterium, taken up by a green algal ancestor of the plants sometime in the Precambrian.
However, not all "blue-green" bacteria are blue; some common forms are red or pink from the pigment Phycoerythrin. These bacterium are often found growing on greenhouse glass or around sinks and drains. The Red Sea gets its name from occasional blooms of a reddish species of Oscillatoria, and African flamingos get their pink color from eating Spirulina.
Whatever their color, Cyanobacteria are Photosynthetic, and can manufacture their own food. This has caused them to be dubbed "blue-green algae", though they have no relationship to any of the various eukayotic algae. The term "algae" merely refers to any aquatic organisms capable of photosynthesis.
Cyanobacteria are aquatic and photosynthetic, which means, these bacterium live in the water and can manufacture their own food. Because they are bacteria, not algae, they are quite small and usually unicellular, though they often grow in colonies large enough to see.
Blue Green Algae (Cyanobacteria) can look a lot like actual true algae, however when it grows on the sides, decorations, and substrate of aquariums it has a much more “slimy” mat appearance and will easily “brush off’ or even come off with a medium to strong water current. This is generally NOT the case for true algae.
Cyanobacteria (Blue Green algae) often is not even green, but red or to a lesser degree, brown/ red or even orange. These different color variations are due to Phycoerythrin, a red protein from the light-harvesting phycobiliprotein family which is present in Cyanobacteria.
When in free floating form (more common in lakes than aquariums), it will often form a very dense green cloud that may look like paint floating on the water. Some blooms may not affect the appearance of the water. As a Cyanobacterial bloom dies off, the water may smell bad.
Cyanobacteria are from the phylum Cyanophyta of Bacteria that obtain their energy through photosynthesis. They are often still generally referred to as blue-green algae, although they are actually prokaryotes (organisms without a cell nucleus) like bacteria.
Prokaryotes usually are unicellular, although some are capable of forming cell groups called Colonies. Individual Blue-Green Algae that make up these colonies will usually act independent of one another.
Colonies are formed by organisms that remain attached following cell division, often through the help of a secreted slimy layer that we often see as slimy green mat in our aquariums.
Cyanobacteria are the only known group of organisms that are able to reduce nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions. The water-oxidizing photosynthesis is accomplished by coupling the activity of photosystem (protein complexes involved in photosynthesis) PS II and I (Z-scheme; the light-dependent reaction, which converts solar energy into chemical energy).
In anaerobic conditions, they are also able to use only PS I — cyclic photophosphorylation — with electron donors other than water (hydrogen sulfide, thiosulphate, or even molecular hydrogen) just like purple photosynthetic bacteria.
Cyanobacteria also have the ability to reduce elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark. This is a key point missed by those still promoting the discredited darkening of the aquarium method for control.
A unique aspect of these organisms is that their photosynthetic electron transport shares the same compartment as the components of respiratory electron transport. It is the thylakoid membrane (the site of the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis) hosts both respiratory and photosynthetic electron transport, while the plasma membrane contains only components of the respiratory chain.
Cyanobacteria, Nitrogen and Ammonia:
Since Cyanobacteria have been around before photosynthesizing plants and before there was any free oxygen in the air, it is thought that Cyanobacteria developed the ability to scavenge nitrogen from the atmospheric dinitrogen gas often dissolved in water. Nitrogen is one of the building blocks of amino acids and necessary to living organisms.
However, even though nitrogen makes up four-fifths of the atmosphere, it is locked away. Cyanobacteria are able to break apart the molecule of dinitrogen and capture the nitrogen gas via Nitrogenase enzymes.
Nitrogenase enzyme molecules are very large, complex enzymes, built of two twisted and balled-up proteins, that combine and recombine to convert a molecule of N2 to two molecules of usable ammonia, NH3. Though Nitrogenase enzymes enable conversion of atmospheric nitrogen so that it can be employed in life processes, it is ineffective in the presence of oxygen. To protect the Nitrogenase from oxygen, many nitrogen-capturing Cyanobacteria (usually of the filamentous variety) have developed special nitrogen-fixing cells called Heterocysts encased in thickened cell walls.
Because of this ability, low nitrate levels are generally not the key to stopping this plague and in fact low nitrates may help cyanobacteria out compete higher plants and algae.
Here is reference site about bacteriolgy that I found both interesting and useful:
THE DIVERSITY OF METABOLISM IN PROCARYOTES
Health Risks
Cyanobacteria MAY produce neurotoxins, cytotoxins, endotoxins, and hepatotoxins, all of which are collectively known as cyanotoxins.
The keyword is 'MAY' as this is not the case with all Cyanobacteria, especially many that we find growing in our aquariums.
Specific toxins include, anatoxin-a, anatoxin-as, aplysiatoxin, cyanopeptolin, cylindrospermopsin, domoic acid, nodularin R (from Nodularia), neosaxitoxin, and saxitoxin. Many Cyanobacteria reproduce explosively under certain conditions. This results in algal blooms, which can become harmful to other species, and pose a danger to humans and animals, if the cyanobacteria involved produce these toxins.
Several cases of human poisoning have been documented, but a lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks and ditto as per documentation for dangers to fish in these waters.
As an interesting side note; some studies suggest that significant exposure to high levels of cyanobacteria producing toxins such as BMAA can cause amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS). People living within half a mile of cyanobacterially contaminated lakes have had a 2.3-times greater risk of developing ALS than the rest of the population.
Reference: Wikipedia; Cyanobacteria
TREATMENT (Eradication/ Control);
With some of the above information in hand, one can now make more informed choices about how to eradicate Cyanobacteria.
(or more) using a gravel vacuum (especially to remove nitrogenous waste producing mulm which often accumulates under rocks or UGF plates). Also check canister filters and wet dry filters in particular for organic mulm buildup that will eventually add nutrients to the water column, this cuts off one source of nutrition.
The use of a re-circulating Micron Filter such as the Aquarium Cleaning Machine or a Diatom filter is especially useful for removal of both mulm and the BG Algae (Cyanobacteria) itself (I will generally “scrub” the algae off rocks, etc. first and then run the filter on re-circulate mode through its 30 micron filter cartridge to remove most of the loose algae and much of the nutrient producing mulm as well.
More simple filter devices such as the Ehiem Sludge Remover can help, especially with aquariums under 60 gallons.
See this product link:
*https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquariumvacuum.html#eheim_vac
Removing hydrogen sulfate producing anaerobic bacteria in freshwater is important as well. Make sure and vacuum all the dead spots. Along the same lines, removing sand and replacing it with gravel has helped in aquariums I have monitored with BG algae.
With Ponds, make sure sludge buildup on the bottom or in filters (especially barrel or waterfall type filters) is limited.
The composite picture above displays a few examples of the different forms Cyanobacteria can take in an aquarium
Consider Compact Fluorescent lamps that easily fit into most standard incandescent fixtures (these self ballasted 6500k lights can cost as little as $5).
Better yet, the use of full spectrum LED lights or Metal Halide lights as tests have shown total elimination of Cyanobacteria (providing other parameters to control Cyanobacteria are correct).
More bluntly, lighting has been the biggest factor in Cyanobacteria bacteria (Blue/Green Algae) control and more specifically Quality LEDs (NOT low output & poor PUR Marineland Double Brights, Ecoxotic, Fluval, Finnex, Satellite, or similar cheap LEDs that have flooded the market by irresponsible sellers such as Amazon), followed by Metal Halide lights which have shown the biggest improvement due to the much lower green/yellow light energy output.
Even with more optimal lighting, shortening the photo period can often help as well.
As an example, if the lights are normally run 10 hours, try 8 or 9 hours and work down from here.
As well, make sure your lights and any glass/acrylic are clean, as dirt or hard water build up will block light energy. Since Cyanobacteria is better at using middle bands and diffused light than many plants, this may contribute to cyanobacteria growth.
Product Resources:
*Premium HO per Watt GroBeam & AquaBeam LED Lights
*Compact Self Ballasted Fluorescent Lights
This study backs up my observations:
Common freshwater cyanobacteria grow in 100% CO2
For this reason I generally recommend systems such as in the Walstad that utilize a more natural approach to planted aquariums. This is also why the one filter that is unfortunately popular among planted aquarium keepers I do NOT recommend is the wet/dry as these are notorious for their need for added CO2.
Best would be a Fluidized Filter System.
Reference:
Planted Aquarium Care
Product Resource: Premium American Aquarium Fluidized Sand Bed Filters
See this product reference:
https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/MedicatedWonderShell.html
The key for UV Sterilization to be effective is for proper installation with a well designed unit. Not a poorly designed unit (often sold by some retailers). Make sure your flow does not exceed 30 gph per watt for most models (less is better) and that you have a good flow pattern in your aquarium. Make sure to regularly clean any areas of BG algae build up to dislodge it.
It is also noteworthy that UV Sterilization has been more helpful in my experimentation with cyanobacteria control/eradication in marine aquariums versus freshwater aquariums.
If you have a UV Sterilizer, make sure to change your UV Bulb/Lamp every six months (possibly once per year in cool climate ponds), otherwise this device will basically become a useless “decoration”.
As well, many UV Sterilizer/Clarifiers used in ponds are incorrectly installed with flow rates that can control “free floating algae” at best. Not bacteria which require 30 gph per watt or less to be effective (this is often the result of false advertising by so many UV Sterilizer manufactures).
Please see this article below for much more in depth information about UV Sterilization:
*UV Sterilization
Here are two recommended UV Sterilizer product links:
*UV Sterilizers
*UV-C Germicidal Replacement Bulbs
Here is a quote:
“I had several rocks which had Cyanobacteria red slime algae covering them from the old system. The morning after adding the crabs I witnessed "Herds" of about 6 or 7 crabs each that would concentrate on a rock at a time, totally eliminating the Cyanobacteria I have never heard of a Cyanobacteria eating critter like this and it seems they actually prefer it! A week later, my tank was almost completely free of red slime”.
For more about these crabs, please read this out side article resource:
“Natural Red Slime Algae Control for Reef Aquariums”
For a source of very efficient Blue Leg Crab.
"The Blue leg hermit crab is a reef safe hermit crab which eats algae and left over food. It is a nice addition to the aquarium as this crab stands out with it's bright blue legs. They are an omnivorous bottom feeder which has been photographed eating red slime algae aka blue green algae aka cyanobacteria."
Blue Leg Hermit Crab (Clibanarius tricolor)
- Cut back on nutrients in the water column
Better choices: Aqua Master, Paradigm, Aqueon, Spirulina 20 just to name a few.
This again will cut back on nutrients.
You want to aim for less ammonia, which is the result of poorly digested food (not necessarily nitrates due to the properties of Cyanobacteria, as well plants and true algae can out compete providing phosphates and optimum light are available)
Hydrogen Peroxide use in Aquarium
Erythromycin, especially if used in the vastly superior Erythromycin Phosphate formula (over the more common Erythromycin Sulfate) has shown to be a very effective medication here as well.
Please note that Erythromycin can and will destroy your nitrifying bacteria if over used. The use of Erythromycin is a short term solution for eradication of Cyanobacteria (especially in ponds). The regular use of this antibiotic to control Cyanobacteria will often put your aquarium and especially pond in a vicious cycle of requiring more of this antibiotic as the loss of nitrifying bacteria and subsequent poor water quality results in an even better environment for Cyanobacteria growth.
Source for best Erythromycin:
AAP Myacin; Erythromycin Phosphate The ONLY source for Erythromycin Phosphate (Mardel Maracyn & API Erythromycin are both Erythromycin Sulfate)
The fact is that Cyanobacteria thrives (in part of being an ancient life form) in environments that higher plant, fish, and even other true algae cannot. Why would you want to produce an environment like this?
More information about Erythromycin: Erythromycin Medication Information
See: DIY Pond Veggie Filter
Better is to have the CORRECT lighting such as higher output 6400K lights or better, LED or Metal Halide.
CYANOBACTERIA IN MARINE AQUARIUMS:
In saltwater aquariums, Cyanobacteria are often red and appear as a red slime, thus the term “Red Slime Algae” used to describe this in marine aquariums. This NOT to be confused with coralline algae which is indicative of a healthy marine aquarium (see this article about marine chemistry necessary for the growth of coralline algae: “Aquarium Saltwater (marine) Basics”
In Marine Aquariums dissolved organic carbon is the result of anything organic that has died off and gets decomposed by bacteria. Dissolved organics are a food source of the bacterial side of the Cyanobacteria (Red Slime Algae). Sources of this dissolved carbon can include dead algae, bacteria, digested or uneaten food, metabolic waste, and some organic aquarium additives.
Aquarium additives, such as alkalinity controllers, contain bicarbonates. Bicarbonates convert into CO2, thus adding to the carbon levels. This also explains why Cyanobacteria are a common problem in saltwater aquariums.
As with Freshwater, limiting dissolved organic carbon can help, but the bacteria-algae is capable of consuming all the carbon needed derived from CO2. It is therefore important, especially for marine aquariums, to ensure a proper gas-off by water movement and adjustments of water flow.
The more oxygen created, the better the degassing effect.
Filtration such as a well maintained (frequently rinsed) filter can reduce organics and thus carbon. Skimmers are effective tools, but need to be maintained frequently. The Berlin Method that combines mud filtration or a Refugium is also beneficial along with UV Sterilization.
Reference: Aquarium Filtration; Berlin Method
Make sure that if macroalgae, which consume nitrates much faster than phosphates, eliminate all nitrates that this too can open the door to Cyanobacteria.
Further Reading/References:
- www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/bacteria/cyanointro.html
- tolweb.org/Cyanobacteria/2290/2006.03.10
- www-cyanosite.bio.purdue.edu/taxon77.html
- www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/bacteria/cyanolh.html
By Carl Strohmeyer
Other Recommended Reference/Products Sites
Aquarium Lighting; Complete Information
Understanding what makes for correct lighting is very important, even for fish only aquariums but even more important for Reef or Planted aquariums!
AAP Hydro Sponge Filters
THE PREMIUM Aquarium Sponge Filter with as much as 5 TIMES the bio and mechanical capacity of commonly sold Chinese knock offs!!
Definitely worth the extra $1-3
San Francisco Bay Brand Seaweed Salad
"Seaweed Salad" is much more nutritious than spinach and lettuce.
This product is recommended for all saltwater Damsels, Clownfish, and especially Marine Angels and Tangs
Hydor Smart Wave Controller
• Promotes a healthy reef aquarium or similar aquarium environment where wave action is desired by recreating natural currents found in nature
• Synchronous program for currents typical of barrier reefs and alternate for tides
For a friendly, Knowledgeable, aquarium forum with in a family atmosphere:
*Aquarium Forum; Everything Aquatic
TMC Premium Fluidized Sand Bed Bio Filters
Premium, second to NONE Aquarium Bio Filters, that with Oolitic Sand also maintain essential marine aquarium calcium levels, alkalinity, & electrolytes that are important to ALL Marine life, Goldfish, African Cichlids, Livebearers & more
Non Stop Air Pump, AC OR DC
This air pump pushes out 4L of air per minute, REGARDLESS of whether you have AC power or NOT
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Labels: algae, aquarium, Blue Green Algae, Cyanobacteria, cyanobacteria treatment, freshwater, red slime algae, saltwater
